Fuligni Brunello Riserva 2019: A Near-Perfect Tuscan Expression

99 points from Wine Advocate. That’s a score you don’t see often, and certainly not in Brunello, where even top producers usually land in the 95-97 zone. The Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019 earns its place. Over a hundred years of family tradition since Giovanni Maria Fuligni arrived in Montalcino; today led by Maria Flora.

The vineyard

Northeastern Montalcino, a corner that typically runs cooler than the south-west side. Late September harvest for optimal phenolic ripeness. The exposure gives Sangiovese room to keep elegance instead of falling into heaviness — typical of the Fuligni style.

Vinification

Strict selection on the sorting belt. Fermentation in stainless steel under tight temperature control. Maceration limited to 15-20 days with regular pumping over; a deliberate choice to balance extraction and finesse. Long élevage following DOCG Riserva requirements (minimum 5 years, of which 2 in wood, 6 months in bottle); Fuligni goes beyond.

Tasting notes

Luminous ruby with notable clarity. Complex bouquet: floral up front, then bergamot, wild thyme and licorice. Not one-dimensional; each swirl reveals another layer.

On the palate silky tannins of exceptional finesse. Red and black fruit perfectly balanced, herbal underlay, long finish with persistent mineral tension. Drinkable now but evolves through to well past 2030.

The cellars

The estate has two historic cellars: a 17th-century one once home to Medicean Grand Dukes, and renovated 16th-century convent cellars. Not a deciding factor in the wine, but an illustration of the continuity in which this bottle sits.

Verdict

One of the most complete Brunello Riservas of the 2019 vintage. For drinkers wanting Sangiovese at the highest level — finesse over extraction — a direct recommendation. Cellar potential: 15-20 years.