Podere Sapaio: Bordeaux on the Bolgheri coast
Podere Sapaio makes Bordeaux blends in Bolgheri, with time as its guiding principle and concrete beside wood in the cellar. A portrait after La Grande Bellezza.
From the hills of Montalcino to the sea. Podere Sapaio makes Bordeaux blends in Bolgheri on clay and loam near the coast, and puts one principle at the centre: time. I tasted their Volpolo 2023 and the flagship Sapaio 2021 at La Grande Bellezza in Amsterdam, and both glasses voiced that patient approach.
Podere Sapaio in Bolgheri: concrete beside wood
Sapaio’s philosophy turns on time, and that translates straight to the cellar. Concrete and wooden vats stand side by side, each with its own role. Concrete ensures stable temperatures and gentle micro-oxygenation, letting the wines develop harmony, refined tannins and pure aromas without outside influence. Wood does the opposite: slower ageing with limited oxygen, which strengthens varietal expression and preserves elegance and complexity.
The house works 27 hectares of vineyard. Born by the sea and refined in the cellar, as they describe it themselves, and the wines reflect that balance between nature, time and craftsmanship.
Entry and top
An interesting detail: the entry wine carries the Bolgheri DOC, while the flagship goes through life as Toscana IGT. That is not down to the blend, which Bolgheri DOC would allow. Since 2015 the wine has included fruit from Bibbona, just outside the DOC, and from the 2023 vintage on Sapaio comes entirely from there.
The Volpolo 2023 is the entry wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Petit Verdot. A purple rim over ruby red, black fruit, orange and a whisper of Earl Grey. The Merlot brings a Bordeaux vibe, but warmer and Mediterranean. Tight acids, lively tannins, crisp, with structures that run from smooth to grippy. A full young wine that asks for food.
The Sapaio 2021 is the flagship, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. An energetic, layered nose with cigar box, mushroom, cherries, clove and vanilla, then balsamic and tomato leaf. Beautiful acids, high but elegant, and complex, taut tannins. Pure and clean, gastronomic, and a wine that makes you happy. For me the most complete wine of the day.
Sources
- Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, on Sapaio 2021 and its Bibbona origin: sapaio.com
- Podere Sapaio (official): sapaio.it
- Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Bolgheri: bolgheridoc.com
- La Grande Bellezza (tasting): lagrandebellezza.com
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