Wine with

Wine with indonesian rijsttafel

Rendang, sambal, satay sauce, ketjap and acar on one table. Sweet, hot, sour and fatty all at once, and that is why most wine stumbles here. Dry red turns bitter from the sambal and oaked white drowns in the ketjap. What works is fruit, a little sugar and low alcohol.

Three styles that work

  1. 1

    Riesling with residual sweetness

    Spätlese or a Kabinett with some sugar: the sweetness puts out the sambal, the acidity cuts through the coconut of the rendang, and the low alcohol does not make the chillies hotter. German Riesling with Indonesian food is not a compromise but the best wine on the table.

  2. 2

    Demi-sec champagne

    The forgotten style, and with a rijsttafel the smartest one. Thirty to fifty grams of sugar sounds like a lot, but against satay sauce and ketjap it is exactly in balance, and the mousse does what beer does with hot food: wipes the mouth clean. Pick one from a grower, not the sweet supermarket version.

  3. 3

    Moscatel sherry with the sweet dishes

    With chicken in ketjap, with pisang goreng, with anything containing palm sugar. Moscatel from Chipiona is sweet but aromatic, with orange peel and jasmine, and keeps the rijsttafel lighter than a PX would. A small glass beside the Riesling, not instead of it.

Without alcohol

Alcohol-free Riesling

For exactly the reason Riesling itself works: acidity and aroma remain, and the alcohol was never needed anyway. Kolonne Null Gelblack, a press sample, carries enough residual sugar for the sambal.

Frequently asked questions

Isn't beer simply better with rijsttafel?

A lager does one thing well: cooling. A Riesling does that too, and adds fruit and sweetness that lift the dishes. Those who never tried it keep drinking beer; those who tried it once do not.

Which wine with rendang on its own?

Rendang without sambal can take red: a Pinot Noir or a light Rioja, chilled. The coconut and spices ask for fruit, not oak.

No scores, but an opinion. The bottles I name I tasted myself; how each reached me is stated at the bottom of every review.

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