Zavel Pinot Gris Barrique 2023: From Ordinary to Exceptional

Pinot Gris outside Alsace and Alto Adige rarely produces exciting wine. Low acidity, fast sugar accumulation — a winemaking challenge that defeats many producers. Joni Sloesen of Wijngaard Zavel admits this directly, simply saying Pinot Gris “isn’t the most interesting grape to work with.” Yet for the Pinot Gris Barrique 2023 he has found an approach that lifts the variety into serious territory — eleven months in used oak, malolactic conversion, long lees aging.

Vinification

Used oak barrels from their fourth filling onward. Deliberate: the barrels deliver oxidative aging without vanilla overload. Long fermentation on the lees for texture and creamy mouthfeel. Full malolactic conversion for roundness without losing freshness. Tight pH control and minimal sulphite to preserve natural structure.

Tasting notes

Rich aromatics: butter-poached apple and pear, with almond paste and hazelnut from extended lees contact. On the palate creamy and structured at once. Candied citrus zest and ripe orchard fruit through the mid-palate, subtle oak touches that don’t overpower the fruit line. Long finish with mineral underlay.

What stands out: despite Pinot Gris’s tendency toward flabbiness, this wine holds energy and focus from start to finish.

At the table

Creamy richness pairs with roasted poultry; the acidity beneath the surface cuts through butter sauces. Texture and structure carry more substantial dishes than a typical Pinot Gris would support — hazelnut and almond touches also suggest pairings with mushroom pasta or grilled vegetables.

Verdict

€17 for a Dutch Pinot Gris that overcomes its grape limitations through thoughtful vinification. Not the natural complexity of grand cru Alsace Pinot Gris, but the sharpest illustration of what a winemaker can achieve through technique on a difficult variety. For drinkers wanting Dutch wine outside the standard varieties, a direct recommendation.