Dumangin Ratafia Champenois: A Luxurious Journey Through Champagne's Fortified Wine Treasures
Sponsored by Champagne Dumangin J. Fils
Five different ratafias from one house. Champagne Dumangin J. Fils in Chigny-les-Roses, founded 1884, has built a collection in which each Montagne de Reims grape is bottled as a single-variety ratafia, plus a rosé blend and a barrel-aged multi-vintage. For drinkers who think of ratafia as a champagne by-product, this range is a corrective: it’s serious work backed by PGI status.
What ratafia is
Mistelle from Champagne: unfermented grape must stopped with champagne marc (eau-de-vie). Result: 17-18% alcohol, fruit and acidity preserved, no secondary fermentation. PGI Ratafia Champenois since 2015. Works as aperitif or dessert wine, not as digestif.
Source and approach
Dumangin works with the three classic Champagne grapes from Premier Cru parcels in the Montagne de Reims (Chigny-les-Roses): Chardonnay on chalk for acidity, Pinot Noir for structure, Meunier for fruit. Aging varies by cuvée — stainless steel where freshness counts, second-use Northern Rhône barrels where complexity counts.
Five cuvées
Rosé “Délicatesse” — 2019
Blend of 50% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, co-macerated for skin contact. Stainless steel aging keeps the colour intense. 17% alcohol. Only a few hundred bottles.
Nose: rich confectionery aromas, English candy character. On the palate vibrant acidity holds the sweetness in check, long finish. Works with desserts and aged hard cheeses. Serve at 12-15°C.
”Craft” Affinage Sous Bois — multi-vintage
1/3 Pinot Noir, 2/3 Meunier, multi-vintage 2002-2013. Minimum six years (average nine) in 228-litre barrels from the Northern Rhône. 18% alcohol. About 3,500 bottles per year.
Deep amber with gold reflection. Layered ripe-fruit aromas, marked depth, long finish. Pair with 18-month Comté or dark chocolate desserts.
Chardonnay “Finesse” — 2019
100% Chardonnay from chalk-rich Montagne de Reims plots. Stainless steel. 17% alcohol. About 1,200 bottles. Gold Concours Mondial 2020.
Pale gold. Fruit paste aromas, on the palate intense peach notes with beautiful acidity and length. Aperitif or with sashimi.
Pinot Noir “Force” — 2019
100% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims. Stainless steel. 17% alcohol. About 1,200 bottles. Gold Concours Mondial 2020.
Clear amber. Peppery nose with a Sichuan pepper character, on the palate candied fruits — especially morello cherry — with notable acidity and length. Works with spiced duck and mature cheeses.
Meunier “Fruit” — 2019
100% Meunier from Montagne de Reims. Stainless steel. 17% alcohol. About 1,200 bottles. Silver Concours Mondial 2020.
Deep amber with ruby hints. Citrus up front (lemon and orange zest), on the palate stone fruit with notable apricot and a persistent acidic finish. With fresh fruit dessert or mildly spiced Asian.
Verdict
Dumangin treats ratafia as a serious category, not a champagne by-product. Five cuvées each show their grape or technique without losing the family resemblance. For drinkers who don’t yet know the PGI Ratafia Champenois segment, this house is a direct entry point.
Disclosure: Champagne Dumangin J. Fils provided bottles for this article. All tasting notes are my own independent assessment.
More information: https://champagne-dumangin.fr/
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