Three bottles from Les Jardins En-Chantants have recently arrived at my tasting table, prompting me to rethink everything I thought I knew about Alsatian wine. This small, dynamic estate near Colmar, operated by Léa and Gabriel Willem, embodies a fascinating new wave in French winemaking—one where the boundaries between art, agriculture, and winemaking blend into something entirely fresh and exciting.
A Natural Approach to Winemaking
The wines I’m tasting today showcase Les Jardins En-Chantants’ commitment to absolutely natural winemaking. Their orange wine “La Griffe de Gniff” 2022 is a fascinating blend of Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris, while their “Pet’Gab’La” 2023 is a pétillant naturel made from 100% Pinot Auxerrois. Completing the trilogy is their “Ranyoot” 2023, a vivacious red wine made from 100% Pinot Noir using semi-carbonic maceration. All three wines are produced without any additions – no sulfites, filtering, or fining.
What’s particularly interesting is their use of an ancestral ratchet press, which they operate manually over many hours. The juice flows by gravity directly into the cellar, embodying their minimal intervention philosophy. Each wine showcases different maceration techniques: 21 days for La Griffe de Gniff’s orange wine character, and 29 days of semi-carbonic maceration for the Ranyoot, allowing each variety to express itself fully.
The Artist-Farmers’ Philosophy
“We claim to be complete artists, mixing culture and agriculture,” the Willems state and this philosophy permeates every aspect of their operation. They’ve established what they call a “micro family farm,” approaching viticulture with the sensibility of artists rather than just producers. Their commitment to natural winemaking isn’t just about technique – it’s a statement about biodiversity and life itself.
As neo-vignerons (new winegrowers), they’ve faced significant challenges in acquiring venin in the highly competitive Colmar region. Starting from zero, they’ve gradually built their dream, acquiring parcels in various locations—some as far as 300km away, others closer to home. Their approach shows remarkable patience and adaptability. They’ve taken over abandoned hillside plots that larger producers have left behind in favor of more easily mechanized sites.
The Vineyards: A Mosaic of Terroirs
Their vineyards present a fascinating patchwork of terroirs. The parcels for La Griffe de Gniff are spread across Zellenberg, Nothalten, Winzenheim, Blienschschwihr, and Rouffach, with soils varying between limestone, clay, and loam. These diverse terroirs contribute to the complexity of their wines, while their newest venture in Quincié-en-Beaujolais, at 450 meters altitude, adds Gamay to their repertoire.
For their Ranyoot Pinot Noir, they’ve selected parcels that showcase the variety’s elegant side, working with older vines that provide depth and complexity to the final wine. The Pet’Gab’La comes from Nothalten’s Sommerain lieu-dit, where sandy-limestone soils impart a distinctive mineral character to the Pinot Auxerrois.
Tasting Notes
With these three wines in front of me, the orange wine attracted me the most because of its color. The Pet Nat was still slightly bubbly, so I worried it might explode when I opened it—but it didn’t.
La Griffe de Gniff 2022 (Orange Wine)
- Composition: Blend of Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris
- Vinification: 21-day carbonic maceration, zero additives, unfiltered
- Appearance: Luminous amber-brown
- Nose: Complex bouquet of buttered toast and exotic fruits
- Palate: Beautiful acidity dances with bitter notes in a captivating corps-à-corps
- Quality: Outstanding integration of its diverse components
- Food Pairing: Exceptional with lacto-fermented vegetables, particularly kimchi
- Aging: 12 months on fine lees in pear-shaped barrels
Pet’Gab’La 2023 (Pétillant Naturel)
- Composition: 100% Pinot Auxerrois
- Vinification: Direct pressing, zero additives, manual disgorgement
- Appearance: Deep yellow with fine, persistent bubbles
- Nose: Enticing aromas of pear, pineapple, and acacia flowers
- Palate: Supple attack with impressive length and complexity
- Quality: Exemplary representation of natural Pét-Nat style
- Food Pairing: Spring salads with nuts and edible flowers
- Aging: 6 months on lees before manual disgorgement
Ranyoot 2023 (Red Wine)
- Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
- Vinification: 29 days of semi-carbonic maceration, zero additives
- Appearance: Deep ruby with violet highlights
- Nose: Pure, vibrant Pinot Noir character with fresh red berries and subtle earthy notes
- Palate: The semi-carbonic maceration lendsterrificl freshness and lift while maintaining natural elegance
- Quality: An excellent expression of natural Pinot Noir showcasing minimal intervention
- Food Pairing: Beautiful with mushroom dishes, particularly wild mushroom risotto or seared duck breast
- Service: Best served slightly chilled at 14-16°C
Recent Developments
The most exciting news from Les Jardins En-Chantants is their gradual acquisition of new vineyard sites closer to their home base. What started with parcels 300 kilometers away has evolved into a more concentrated collection of sites, with some just 10 kilometers from their property. Their commitment to acquiring “magical” parcels that others have abandoned due to mechanization difficulties shows their dedication to preserving traditional viticulture. The introduction of their Ranyoot 2023 represents an exciting addition to their portfolio. It shows their mastery of red wine production alongside their acclaimed white, orange, and sparkling wines. This expansion into pure Pinot Noir production demonstrates their growing confidence and skill in working with different grape varieties and vinification methods.
Concluding Thoughts
Les Jardins En-Chantants represents the exciting future of natural winemaking in France. Their commitment to preserving traditional vineyard sites and their artistic approach to winemaking produce an intellectually stimulating and genuinely delicious witness. These bottles offer a compelling narrative in every glass for wine enthusiasts seeking authentic, terroir-driven expressions that challenge conventional wisdom about what Alsatian wine can be.
Thanks for sending me these bottles, Les Jardins En-Chantants!
More information about Les Jardins En-Chantants: https://www.lesjardinsenchantants.com
