Weingartner Furmint 2022: Volcanic Fire from Somló

For most drinkers Furmint means one thing: sweet Tokaj. On Somló’s volcanic slopes, Oliver Weingartner makes a dry version that sits a long way from that cliché; mineral, structured, with a roundness his Juhfark does not carry.

Two soils, one region

The Juhfark grows on pure basalt here; the Furmint sits on mixed soil: less clay, with brown forest earth mixed in. The difference makes this Furmint more approachable without losing Somló’s volcanic backbone.

In the cellar

Oliver calls himself a “lazy winemaker”. It comes down to:

• Whole-cluster pressing in pneumatic press, three hours
• One night of settling
• Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts on stainless steel
• After two weeks into oak casks and porous tanks
• Eight months on fine lees
• No SO₂ until bottling

Tasting note

Mid-blond. The nose is structured and full, with classic Furmint character and an earthy, clayey undertone that gives the terroir away. Concentrated fruit (apricot, peach, nectarine, a touch of sour cherry) with a herbal-spice twist.

The palate carries no biting acidity but a refined, long line of tension. Mineral-precise, with a saline tail and developing nutmeg. More approachable than many Somló whites, without the region disappearing.

At the table

• Deep-fried seaweed (a Belgian two-star kitchen pairs it this way)
• Shellfish in beurre blanc
• Asian dishes with Sichuan pepper
• Rich poultry preparations

Availability

Just 200 bottles of this vintage. The stock left for Belgium. Spot it and grab it.

Sources

• Wines of Hungary: winesofhungary.org