A university leaf analysis found no chemical agents at all, and the researchers called such a clean result rare. That’s where the Solaris 2022 Special Edition from Wijngaard VieVinVjenne, on Landgoed Puur Natuur in Twente, begins. A dry white from unsprayed Solaris grapes is something you rarely see in the Netherlands. It goes beyond organic, and it is natural wine at the same time: unfiltered, virtually no added sulphites, vegan and made in small quantities.

The people behind it

Marcel Oude Booijink and his wife Hermien started in 2007 in Vriezenveen, on land that used to hold livestock. They planted around two and a half hectares of vines. For white, they chose Solaris and Johanniter. The estate describes Marcel as the first natural winemaker in the Netherlands.

Hermien is on the label of this special edition. Marcel calls her the queen of the vineyard.

Why Solaris

Solaris is a fungus-resistant variety, a so-called piwi. That makes growing without sprays possible, even in Twente. The grape ripens early and builds a lot of sugar, which fits the 14.4 percent alcohol in this bottle.

The labour

From June to September Marcel strips leaves around the bunches by hand. It’s more work than the harvest itself, but it keeps mould away and helps the aromas develop. At harvest he picks three times, taking only what’s ripe each pass: at least three weeks of work for this small volume.

In the cellar he intervenes as little as possible, but keeps tight control. During pressing he adds a bare minimum to prevent loss of aroma. During fermentation the skins stay in the juice for days. That brings complexity, body and a light tannin.

Tasting Note

Appearance

Orange-gold, lightly cloudy: the wine is unfiltered.

Nose

An aromatic haze rises from the bottle the moment you pull the cork. Wild and beautiful: blossom, orange blossom, rose and acacia, woven through green apple, ripe pear, melon, mango, passionfruit, pineapple and papaya. Underneath, vanilla, butter, light toast and a sharp hint of berries.

Palate

The fruit from the nose comes back with an extra dimension. Medium-plus acidity and a light skin tannin give structure. Full-bodied.

Finish

Long. The 14.4 percent alcohol feels surprisingly light. The wine keeps unfolding in the glass.

Quality

An exceptional wine, made with a great deal of labour.

What to watch for

First, the price. Sixty-five euros is a lot for a Dutch white, and more than an average bottle costs. I think it’s worth it, given the handwork and what happens in the glass. But this is a bottle for a special evening, not a house wine.

Second, the alcohol. On paper 14.4 percent is hefty for a white. In my glass it felt surprisingly light, but don’t serve it too warm, and don’t pour big glasses back to back.

Third, the style. If you expect a crisp, bright white, you’ll get something else. Cloudy, skin contact, a wild nose: this is natural wine, and it tastes like it.

Fourth, availability. Production is small, and sellers say VieVinVjenne’s wines sell out fast. If you want to try it, your best bet is going straight to the vineyard.

My verdict

A Dutch natural wine that holds its own against international benchmarks. For anyone looking for Dutch natural wine at the highest level: a straight recommendation.

Producer: Wijngaard VieVinVjenne, Vriezenveen
Wine: Solaris Special Edition
Vintage: 2022
Region: Twente, Netherlands
Grape: Solaris (piwi)
Style: Dry white, skin contact, unfiltered
Viticulture: Unsprayed, leaves removed by hand
Alcohol: 14.4%
Price: €65

Sources

My own tasting note, October 2024, from a bottle Marcel Oude Booijink sent me
VieVinVjenne (official): puurnatuurwijn.nl, for the history of the vineyard
Design & Wijn, Wijngaard VieVinVjenne, for 2007, 2.5 hectares and the grape varieties

Solaris 2022: Organic Natural Wine from VieVinVjenne