Oliver Weingärtner on volcanic Somló

An Austrian working an extinct Hungarian volcano. That is the short version of Oliver Weingärtner’s story. In this Sparks I travel to Somló, forty kilometres from Lake Balaton, where Oliver farms four hectares of organic vineyards on basalt-rich slopes. We taste two wines together, the Juhfark 2022 and the Furmint 2022, and talk about what volcanic soil does to a glass of wine.

Who is Oliver Weingärtner

Oliver is an Austrian working with Austrian precision on Hungarian volcanic grapes. That outsider angle is exactly what makes his wines interesting. Somló’s Juhfark and Furmint sat in Tokaj’s shadow for decades, and winemakers like him are putting those grapes back on the international map.

“After five years, terroir takes everything over. You can’t even tell what grape variety you’re drinking.”

Hungarian nobles once swore Somló wines boosted fertility. Oliver has two children, but happily leaves the science to someone else.

What you learn in this episode

• Why Somló’s basalt-rich soil makes wines so mineral-driven and salty
• What Juhfark is, the rare sheep’s tail grape exclusive to Somló
• How Oliver makes natural wine with spontaneous fermentation and sulfur only at bottling
• Why volcanic terroir completely transforms wines after five years
• How Somló was historically one of only two Hungarian regions allowed to export to France and England, alongside Tokaj
• What climate change is doing to harvests in Central Europe

In the glass

Juhfark is tricky in the cellar. Fermentation stops and restarts several times, building complex roasted notes. The Furmint, Hungary’s best-known white grape, behaves differently on the mixed clay and brown forest soils than on the pure basalt parcels. Both grapes age well and develop honeyed notes without the mineral backbone giving way.

Eight to ten months on fine lees, clear without filtration. That long lees contact, paired with Somló’s tight acidity and minerality, makes wines better suited to a long table conversation than a quick aperitif.

Frequently asked questions

What is Juhfark?

Juhfark literally means sheep’s tail in Hungarian, named for the curved shape of the clusters at ripeness. The grape is exclusive to Somló. In the cellar, fermentation stops and restarts several times, building complex roasted notes.

What makes Somló special?

Somló is an extinct volcano in western Hungary. Ancient basalt scattered across the slopes gives every wine a recognisable saltiness and minerality. Historically, Somló was one of only two Hungarian regions allowed to export to France and England, alongside Tokaj.

What does Oliver mean by lazy winemaking?

Oliver playfully calls his approach lazy winemaking. Nature does the work: spontaneous fermentation on indigenous yeasts, no starters or additives, sulfur only at bottling. His energy goes into the vineyard, aiming for one hundred percent healthy grapes.

Where can I buy these wines?

Weingärtner’s wines can be ordered in the Netherlands through MAG Wijnen in Amsterdam, who also made this episode possible.

Listen on your own podcast platform

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With thanks to MAG Wijnen (Amsterdam) for making this episode and the Hungarian wines possible.