A Dutch sparkler with the nerve to share a table with Champagne. For this Sparks I drove out to Domein Holset in Lemiers, at the foot of the Vaalserberg near the three-country point, and tasted their newest creation with Meta van den Boomen: the Novo 2022. No Pinot, no Chardonnay, but PIWI grapes that fit this cool, damp climate better. And a house that runs the entire sparkling process from grape to bottle itself.
Who is Meta van den Boomen
Meta van den Boomen is co-owner of Domein Holset and the voice behind the estate’s sustainable direction. She explains how Holset balances tradition and innovation, and why the Dutch Limburg terroir offers its own possibilities for sparkling wine. On the warming climate she stays level-headed.
“In Champagne they might admit that now and then they sit with clenched buttocks too, because it is of course getting warmer. And for this style of wine, at a certain point that becomes essential to keep those fine, delicate acids.”
What you learn in this episode
- How PIWI varieties like Souvignier Gris and Johanniter shape the future of Dutch winegrowing
- Why 24 months of ageing on the lees is essential to the quality of a sparkling wine
- The difference between fermentation in stainless steel, oak and ceramic, and what each vessel adds to the base wine
- How climate change is slowly pushing the optimal-acidity window north
- The road towards organic and biodynamic winemaking on sandstone and marl
- Why it takes eight years from planting to bottle
- What the protected PDO Mergelland means and why Holset cannot meet it yet
In the glass
The nose is wider than most sparklers dare: wild peach, lemon zest and spring blossom, with brioche and toast in the background from the long lees ageing. The palate is taut, apple and citrus, with a fine persistent bead and a mineral tail that hangs around. Extra Brut at just 3 grams dosage, but the full malolactic conversion keeps it off the hard edge.
As an apéritif the Novo shines. With food it comes into its own next to fresh seafood or a charred goat-cheese salad. For sashimi-level delicacy it is a touch too forward.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Domein Holset Novo 2022?
A Dutch sparkling wine from southern Limburg, made by the traditional method from 85% Souvignier Gris and 15% Johanniter. It ages 24 months on the lees and, at 3 grams dosage, is an Extra Brut.
Why does Domein Holset use PIWI grapes?
PIWI varieties like Souvignier Gris and Johanniter were bred for cool, damp climates and carry natural fungus resistance. That makes minimum-intervention work in Limburg both philosophically appealing and practically possible.
Can Dutch wine measure up to Champagne?
Visitors from Belgium and Germany now describe Holset as able to measure up to Champagne. As climate change pushes Champagne summers warmer, the optimal-acidity window slides north, and Limburg sits right in it.
Where can I taste or order Domein Holset?
The estate is open daily for tastings and tours in Lemiers, close to Maastricht. The wines can also be ordered through the Domein Holset webshop.
Listen on your own podcast platform
Prefer Apple Podcasts, Pocket Casts, Overcast or another app? Search for Sparks by VinoVonk and you will find this episode with Meta van den Boomen.
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