Cognac

Cognac starts from a wine no one would willingly drink. Ugni Blanc, which covers about 95% of the planted area, delivers high acidity and low alcohol, exactly what the copper alembic charentais needs for two consecutive distillations. The resulting spirit then enters new or used Limousin or Tronçais oak, where the slow work of decades begins.

The six crus, and why two carry the weight

The AOC was codified in 1938 and contains six crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. Grande and Petite Champagne sit on chalky soils related to those of the Champagne region, producing eaux-de-vie that mature slowly and stay floral for decades. Borderies, the smallest cru at roughly 4,000 hectares, gives rounder, nuttier spirits with a shorter optimal maturation window. Fins Bois supplies the volume market, while Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires mostly disappear into blends or feed the Pineau des Charentes production.

A Fine Champagne blend must contain at least 50% Grande Champagne, topped up with Petite Champagne. A straight Grande Champagne label means everything in the bottle comes from that cru. You rarely see these designations on bottles from the major houses, and that is not an accident.

Age categories and what they hide

BNIC age categories tie to the minimum age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend: VS (compte 2, two years on oak), VSOP (compte 4), Napoléon (compte 6) and XO (compte 10 since April 2018, previously six years). Hors d’Âge is formally equivalent to XO.

This is where the communication tilts. The average age inside an XO bottle from a major house often falls between fifteen and thirty years, sometimes higher. Houses such as Hennessy, Martell, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier (together more than 80% of global cognac exports) push the word “premium” while keeping concrete ages and cru breakdowns off the label. Compare this to whisky, where age statements and cask finishes are standard disclosure, and the information gap becomes visible.

Critical observation

Single-cru and single-estate cognacs have existed for decades at producers like Paul Giraud, Frapin, Ragnaud-Sabourin and Jean Fillioux, but they receive a fraction of the attention single malt scotch enjoys. The industry trained consumers to value house style over origin, which is a commercial choice, not a quality verdict. Anyone serious about understanding cognac should buy a Grande Champagne from an independent bouilleur de cru first, and a major-house XO second.

The six crus, ranked

The cru hierarchy runs from inner to outer around the town of Cognac. Grande Champagne (the “premier cru”) sits on the most chalk-rich soil and produces eaux-de-vie that age slowly but maintain refinement for decades. Petite Champagne lies next to it, comparable in style with slightly less chalk. Borderies is a small island above both, delivering rounder cognac with floral notes (a Martell favourite). Fins Bois surrounds these three and supplies the bulk of inventory for the major houses. Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires are peripheral, with lighter soils producing cognac that matures faster but holds less well over time. Labels show “Grande Champagne” or “Fine Champagne” (a Grande + Petite Champagne blend, minimum 50% Grande).

Production figures and market dynamics

The BNIC reported 211 million bottles of exports in 2024, with 95% sold outside France. Top markets: United States (52 million bottles), China (45 million), United Kingdom (12 million). Hennessy alone ships 90 million bottles worldwide. Production stays capped by the AOC boundaries (78,000 hectares maximum) and by the minimum ageing requirements that force inventory management decades into the future. Around 40% of current cognac stock consists of distillate older than 10 years.

In the glass and at the table

Classic cognac is served at room temperature (18-20 °C) in a tulip glass, not a balloon (the narrow opening over-concentrates aromas). As a digestif: after a long meal, with dark chocolate (70%+), with roasted nuts, with blue cheese. For cognac as cocktail ingredient: a Sazerac shows VS-VSOP style at its best; XO does not work in a mix.