Kisi 2024: World-Class White Wine from 45.3° Latitude

Kisi appears in Georgian texts a thousand years old. Archaeological evidence traces it back to qvevri fermentations around 6000 BCE. It is one of the most historically documented grapes in the world, and Winery Saba in Kakheti grows it on 23 hectares of EU-organic certified vineyard at 45.3° north; the exact coordinate they print on every label.

Why Kisi works at this site

Kakheti’s continental climate brings hot summers and cool nights. The fruit ripens to tropical intensity; the cold nights keep the acid standing. Kisi’s thick skin protects against oxidation and allows longer hang time without losing structure. That’s why the grape can be just as convincing without qvevri, given a properly managed vineyard.

Vinification

Hand harvest, gentle press, cold sedimentation to preserve aromatics. Clear juice is racked, then fermented with selected yeasts under temperature control to protect the tropical fruit signature. EU organic certification covers everything from vineyard to bottle. Cold stabilisation at -4°C prevents tartrate, then a light filtration for visual clarity. No qvevri here; this is modern classical white winemaking.

Tasting notes

Golden straw colour, clearly deeper than lighter whites; concentration shows in the glass. The nose opens with ripe mango, full peach and pineapple, then dried apricot and a honeycomb warmth. 14.5% alcohol, but the body reads full rather than heavy; silky, smooth texture, long finish.

Critical

The honey notes are seductive but not without risk. Anyone hunting for tight, bone-dry whites can find them sticky next to rich butter sauces. A touch more acidity would widen the food-pairing window. For drinkers who like the style: few wines in this price bracket combine historical depth with this much concentration.

At the table

Serve at 12-14°C. Roast chicken with herbs, grilled sea bass with lemon, rocket salad with shaved Parmesan. Also works with mild curry, or a Georgian khachapuri pan, where the tropical ripeness supports the salty bread-and-cheese load.

Verdict

Kisi 2024 delivers what put Georgian wine on the international map: complexity with history, no Burgundy mimicry. For drinkers tired of predictable Chardonnay, a direct alternative.

Disclosure: press sample received from Winery Saba. Independent assessment.

Disclosure: this review was made in collaboration with Winery Saba. I received a press sample. All tasting notes are my own independent assessment.