Beyond Primitivo: Puglia's Hidden Nero di Troia

Primitivo is what most drinkers think of for Puglia. Nero di Troia is what they miss. The name translates as “Black of Troy”, wine historians argue about the actual link to the ancient city, but what stands is that this indigenous variety has been embedded for centuries in the limestone soils of northern Puglia, especially around Castel del Monte. Casaltrinita cooperative makes two versions of it, imported into the Netherlands by Terra Collective.

The producer

Casaltrinita is a cooperative in northern Puglia focused on indigenous grapes and local terroir. No flashy single-estate marketing, just consistent work from members following the same Nero di Troia vinification. Terra Collective imports small producers that fall outside the major distribution channels.

The rosé

Deep colour, dry on the palate. Not a pale poolside product. Ripe raspberry and strawberry on the nose, with subtle cardamom, toffee and vanilla, those last two from short cask aging. Enough structure to carry food, not so heavy you skip it. Drink lightly chilled, year-round.

The red “Padre”

Dark ruby. Coffee, leather, tobacco and dark fruit, with a spice layer of nutmeg and cinnamon. Tannins firm but polished, long finish. Not a Primitivo jam-bomb; here Nero di Troia shows that Puglia delivers structure and complexity alongside the sun-driven heat.

Two things missing here

The price, first of all. It appears nowhere in this piece, and without it you cannot weigh whether Nero di Troia is worth breaking your Primitivo habit for.

And the model itself. Casaltrinita is a cooperative, which is exactly what I praise above: consistent work across its members. The other side of that is that you are not buying single-plot expression but a house style. If you want the quirks of one vineyard, look elsewhere.

At the table

Rosé with light pasta, grilled fish, Mediterranean vegetable spreads. Padre with meat sauces, braised short ribs, aged cheeses, or lightly chilled with grilled lamb in summer.

Verdict

Two wines that show why Nero di Troia belongs on the map next to Primitivo. The rosé for drinkers wanting more than summer refreshment, Padre for anyone who wants Puglia with structure. Available via Terra Collective.

*This article is a paid collaboration with Terra Collective.

Sources

• Italian DOC/DOCG regulation: politicheagricole.it