Verzenay

What it is

Verzenay is a Grand Cru village on the Montagne de Reims, sitting on the northeast flank of the forested plateau. Around 418 hectares of vineyard. Plantings: 86 percent Pinot Noir, 14 percent Chardonnay, negligible Meunier. The northern counterpart to Bouzy: another face of the same grape.

Soil and aspect

North and northeast-facing slopes on chalk, sometimes with flint (silex) inclusions. Cooler than the south-facing slopes of Ambonnay or Bouzy. Later ripening, longer growing period, higher acidity at harvest. The Moulin de Verzenay (an old windmill) is the visual landmark of the Montagne.

Style

“Vertical and linear” against the “round and generous” southern Pinot Noir. Verzenay delivers tension, structure and clear acidity where Bouzy gives fruit and roundness. For blenders that’s a valuable component: northern Verzenay gives backbone to a cuvée that would otherwise feel flat.

Producers

• Egly-Ouriet: holdings in Verzenay and Ambonnay, top of the Pinot Noir grower pack
• Mumm: owns substantial Verzenay parcels
• Krug: sources Verzenay fruit for Grande Cuvée and Vintage
• Penet-Chardonnet: smaller grower with clean terroir expression
• Charles Heidsieck: known for mature reserve wines from Verzenay
• Champagne Verzenay (Cooperative): the large local co-op

In the glass

Verzenay Pinot Noir, young: red berry, blood orange, chalky minerality, high acidity. With age: leather, mushroom, dried red fruit, sometimes tobacco. More tense finish than a typical southern Pinot Noir Champagne. Pairs well with poultry, duck, or mature cheese. Best window: 8 to 25 years.