Making Sherry Great Again: Inside the Renaissance of Bodegas Viuda de Manjón

“Sherry – isn’t that something your grandmother used to drink?” When I opened my recent Sparks by VinoVonk episode with this question, Pablo García de León laughed knowingly. As a sixth-generation family member of Bodegas Viuda de Manjón, he’s heard it countless times. But after tasting through his lineup, I’ll admit: I was completely wrong about sherry.

A 175-Year Legacy Led by Women

What caught my attention immediately: this winery has been woman-led since day one. Founded in 1846 by married couple Pedro Manjón and Leona Mergelina in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, it took a dramatic turn when Pedro died just years later. Leona didn’t just maintain the business – she transformed it into a renowned producer across the Marco de Jerez region. Hence the name “Viuda de Manjón” (Widow of Manjón).

After three generations, the family sold to González Byass. After selling to González Byass, the family kept their vineyards and continued growing grapes for nearly a century. Five years ago, Pablo’s mother, the fifth generation, bought back the brands. Now they’re reclaiming their place in sherry’s renaissance with the international brand name Leaena (Latin for lioness).

The family maintains 20 hectares across two prestigious pagos: Miraflores in Sanlúcar and Espartina in Jerez. These vineyards sit in albariza – that distinctive white, chalky soil that acts like a sponge, reflecting sunlight while hoarding precious moisture through Andalucía’s brutal summers.

Four Sherries, Four Stories

During our digital tasting, Pablo walked me through their core range. I’ll be honest about what worked and what didn’t.

Fino Leaena immediately challenged my assumptions. This isn’t your basic, young fino. Instead, it’s a sophisticated blend averaging 6.5 years across five different soleras (fractional blending systems). Even better? It combines wines from both Sanlúcar – bringing that gorgeous maritime salinity – and Jerez, adding drier structure. The biological aging under flor (protective yeast) creates incredible complexity. Suddenly, I understood why sommeliers get excited about quality sherry.

Oloroso Leaena became my instant favorite. At an average age of 16 years, this oxidatively aged beauty (meaning no protective flor, just air contact) delivers power without brutality. Pablo told me, “Don’t be afraid because it’s very strong in the nose and the color looks very strong. But then you have it in the mouth and it’s a very gentle and very silky wine.” He wasn’t overselling. However, here’s my criticism: even exceptional olorosos like this struggle with pricing strategy. Quality bottles remain undervalued in most markets.

Amontillado Leaena offers the best of both worlds – starting as fino under biological aging, then fortified mid-stream to kill the flor and continue oxidatively like oloroso. The seven-year blend delivers those classic walnut notes and oxidative depth while keeping some saline freshness. I found this perhaps the easiest entry point for sherry skeptics, though personally, I missed the oloroso’s dramatic intensity.

Cream Leaena represents their attempt to elevate a frequently mediocre category. Built on the same 16-year-old oloroso, with Pedro Ximénez added for sweetness, it’s undeniably well-crafted. But I must be frank: cream sherry remains problematic for me. I love bone-dry wines or intensely sweet dessert wines (give me 300-400 grams residual sugar!). This middle ground feels compromised, even when executed properly. That said, Pablo’s right that most creams are commercial garbage – this stands well above that crowd.

What Makes These Different?

Beyond the solera system’s complexity, it’s really about terroir. That albariza soil isn’t just visually striking – it fundamentally shapes these wines’ character. Combined with old vines (some 30-35 years) and newly planted blocks, the family can experiment while maintaining consistency.

The Exciting Part: What’s Next

Pablo revealed their most intriguing project: vino de pasto. These are unfortified, still white wines from Palomino grapes – currently outside the official Jerez denomination but potentially sherry’s future. Lower alcohol, terroir-focused, and approachable for younger drinkers who’ve never tried traditional sherry? That’s innovative business and exciting winemaking.

“I think it’s the first step for maybe introducing people to sherry,” Pablo explained. He’s onto something.

Watch the Full Interview

Want the complete story? I spent over 30 minutes with Pablo discussing everything from biological versus oxidative aging to cocktail applications (Fino Margarita, anyone?). Check out the full Sparks by VinoVonk episode:

So, Should You Try These?

Absolutely – but with realistic expectations. Sherry isn’t for everyone, and that’s fine. The fino and oloroso particularly impressed me, while the cream, despite being well-made, won’t convert sweet-wine skeptics. Quality matters tremendously in this category; too many producers chase volume over excellence.

Bodegas Viuda de Manjón proves that when a family invests 175 years of knowledge into every bottle, magic happens. Even this former sherry skeptic walked away convinced.

Find these wines through Anfors Imperial in the Netherlands: https://www.anfors-imperial.com/producenten/spanje/viuda-de-manjon/

For other markets, reach out directly via the winery’s website: https://www.leonasherry.com/

Special thanks to Anfors Imperial for sponsoring this Sparks by VinoVonk episode and making this tasting possible.