Guglielmini: A Family Legacy in San Colombano's Wine Country

San Colombano in Miradolo Terme: where the provinces of Pavia, Milan and Lodi meet. The Guglielmini family has made wine here since 1949, three generations deep. The microclimate at this three-province junction gives their wines a recognizable signature.

Science and tradition

Joseph Guglielmini runs the scientific side and works with the University of Milan’s Faculty of Agriculture. Not a marketing handshake; that partnership has actually reshaped vineyard management and cellar work.

Paging through their tech sheets, what stands out is the minimal intervention. Whether it’s an entry-level wine or a single vineyard named after a family patriarch. Same line throughout: stay out of the way.

The terroir

The plots sit between 110 and 160 meters elevation, on south and southeast-facing slopes. Clay mixed with limestone; good drainage for both reds and whites.

For each plot they pick the training system that fits the grape and microclimate. Sometimes Guyot, sometimes Pergola Alta. Not random, just decades of experience.

The wines

Six bottles on the table; from entry-level to single vineyard. Each captures a different corner of the estate. My tasting notes:

San Colombano DOC Rosso 2022

The current release showcases the estate’s modern approach to traditional winemaking. A blend of Croatina (30-45%), Barbera (25-40%), and Uva Rara (5-15%), this wine undergoes 15-20 days of maceration with pumping over in stainless steel tanks.

Appearance: Deep ruby with enticing purple highlights

Nose: Fresh red fruits leap from the glass, followed by subtle spice notes

Palate: Beautifully balanced with medium-plus body, elegant tannins, and refreshing acidity

Quality: Outstanding - showcases the vintage’s warmth while maintaining freshness

Food Pairing: Perfect with rich pasta dishes, roasted meats, and aged cheeses

Production: 20,000 bottles annually

San Colombano DOC Rosso 2016

This library release demonstrates how these wines can age. The same blend as the 2022, with additional bottle age, has developed more complexity.

Appearance: Deep ruby with slight garnet edges

Nose: Developed aromas of dried fruits, leather, and subtle spice

Palate: Dry, fully integrated tannins, mature fruit character

Length: Long finish with the tertiary flavor complexity

Food Pairing: Perfect with aged cheeses and braised meats

Siro

Named after the family’s great-grandfather, this wine comes from their oldest and sunniest vineyard. Made from 80% Croatina and 20% Barbera, it represents their connection to tradition.

Appearance: Intense garnet red with subtle brick reflections

Nose: Complex bouquet of dried cherries, Fresh fruit with floral undertones, leather, and sweet spices

Palate: Full-bodied with medium (+) mature velvety tannins, excellent structure, fresh medium (+) acidity balanced by velvety tannins, well-structured, medium-plus finish with elegant fruit persistence

Quality: Premium - their top expression of traditional winemaking

Food Pairing: Exceptional with game, aged cheeses, and truffle dishes

Production: 2,000 bottles annually

Il Gheppio

This wine is made from the indigenous Verdea grape and showcases their commitment to preserving local varieties.

Appearance: Pale gold with brilliant reflections

Nose: Delicate aromatics of white peach, herbs, and almond with subtle floral notes

Palate: Crisp and mineral-driven with fresh high acidity and distinctive local character

Length: Medium finish with pleasant sapidity

Quality: Excellent - a unique expression of Indigenous variety

Food Pairing: Perfect with local fish dishes, light appetizers, and white meats

Production: 1,500 bottles annually

Bonarda Frizzante DOC

This wine is a traditional sweet sparkling red made from 100% Croatina, representing the region’s historical style.

Appearance: Vibrant purple with persistent creamy foam

Nose: Fresh red berries, sweet cherry, and floral notes with complex vinous character

Palate: Semi-sweet, medium-bodied with refreshing bubbles and soft tannins

Length: Medium finish with fresh fruit persistence

Quality: Very good - authentic expression of local tradition

Food Pairing: Excellent with desserts or spicy cuisine

Production: 5,000 bottles annually

San Colombano DOC Bianco

Added to their portfolio in 2003, this wine showcases their ability to innovate within the DOC framework. It is made from the Chardonnay Musqué grape.

Appearance: Brilliant straw yellow with green highlights

Nose: White flowers, ripe apple, citrus, and subtle mineral notes

Palate: Fresh and balanced with crisp acidity, good texture and mineral notes

Length: Medium finish with clean, fresh character

Quality: Very good - shows the potential of white wines in the region

Food Pairing: Excellent with fish, light pastas, and fresh cheeses

Production: 8,000 bottles annually

Recent steps

The estate recently launched a new sparkling line using the Charmat method. The shift into white wine, started in 2003, has paid off: the San Colombano DOC Bianco is a local favorite.

On top of that, a sustainability certification for their farming practices. Refreshing to see a historic estate take that step.

Final thoughts

Three generations without the estate turning inward. That’s the achievement. They stick with indigenous grapes like Croatina, Uva Rara and Verdea, and build scientific research and modern viticulture around them.

San Colombano DOC isn’t a name you see often on a wine list. For anyone who likes Italian curios with character, Guglielmini is a find. The Siro and the older vintage of the Rosso show these grapes age perfectly well.

Great wine is about more than what’s in the glass; it’s about choosing to stay with your grapes while everyone around you plants Cabernet. Guglielmini has done that for 75 years.

Thanks again for sending me these bottles!

More information about the winery: https://www.viniguglielmini.com/

Buy these wines at: https://mantegazzavini.com/search?ss360Query=Guglielmini