When most wine lovers hear “Furmint,” they immediately think sweet Tokaj wines. But what happens when Hungary’s most celebrated grape variety meets the volcanic intensity of Somló? Oliver Weingartner’s 2022 Furmint answers that question with a dry, mineral-driven masterpiece that showcases this versatile grape’s remarkable terroir sensitivity.
Furmint’s Volcanic Adventure
Furmint may be Hungary’s most internationally recognized white grape, but its expression on Somló’s volcanic slopes reveals completely different characteristics than its famous sweet wine cousins. “Furmint is really the best-known Hungarian variety,” Oliver notes with pride, “and we can show the Hungarian varieties’ character” through wines like this.
Growing on Somló’s ancient volcanic cone, 40 kilometers from Lake Balaton, these Furmint vines experience terroir so intense that it transforms the grape’s typical profile into something uniquely mineral and structured.
A Tale of Two Soils
Oliver’s Furmint is particularly fascinating because of its terroir story. Unlike his Juhfark, which grows on pure basalt, this Furmint parcel sits on mixed soils—”a little bit less clay, mixing with brown forest soil,” as Oliver explains.
This soil difference creates a more approachable wine while maintaining Somló’s signature volcanic intensity. The result bridges the gap between Somló’s harsh minerality and more conventional wine drinker expectations, offering complexity without overwhelming the palate.
Natural Winemaking Meets Classic Variety
Oliver’s approach to this 2022 Furmint follows his “lazy winemaker” philosophy: whole-bunch pressing in pneumatic presses over three hours, followed by one night of settling, and then spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks using only indigenous yeasts.
After two weeks, the wine moves to a combination of oak barrels and innovative porous tanks for eight months of lees aging. This extended contact develops the wine’s creamy texture while preserving its volcanic mineral core—no sulfur added until bottling, keeping the wine as natural as possible.
Tasting Volcanic Elegance
The 2022 Furmint presents beautifully in the glass with its medium golden color, immediately suggesting complexity. The nose reveals classic Furmint characteristics, enhanced by volcanic terroir: structured and full-bodied, with distinctive clay-like notes that speak to its unique soil composition.
On the palate, expect concentrated fruit flavors ranging from fresh to dried, with beautiful notes of apricot and peach, hints of nectarine, and even surprising cherry and herb elements. The acidity remains refined rather than harsh, making this Somló wine more approachable than typical examples from the region. The finish lingers with mineral precision and developing nutty complexity.
Michelin-Star Recognition
The quality of this wine hasn’t gone unnoticed in fine dining circles. A two-Michelin-star restaurant in Belgium recently selected it for innovative food pairings with fried algae, recognizing how the wine’s mineral intensity and complex structure complement challenging cuisines.
The wine’s spiciness, saltiness, and minerality make it exceptional for food pairing, particularly with seafood, complex spice-driven dishes, and rich poultry preparations. Its structure can withstand intense flavors, while its elegance won’t overwhelm delicate preparations.
Investment-Worthy Hungarian Excellence
With only 200 bottles of this vintage (recently exported to Belgium), the 2022 Furmint represents immediate pleasure and future potential. Oliver’s reputation continues to grow internationally, making his limited-production wines increasingly sought after by collectors and restaurants alike.
For wine enthusiasts seeking authentic Hungarian wine excellence, this Furmint offers the perfect introduction to Somló’s volcanic magic. It proves that Hungary’s noble grape reaches new heights when shaped by ancient volcanic fire.
