Arterberry Maresh: Hidden Treasures from the Dundee Hills
Vines from 1970 on red volcanic Jory soil in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. One of the oldest plots in Willamette Valley, run by Jim Maresh Jr., whose grandfather planted here fifty years ago. Best of Wines sent a Chardonnay 2018 and a Pinot Noir 2021 — an exploration of what Oregon takes from its climatic kinship with Burgundy.
Philosophy
Minimalism: let the vineyard speak. No herbicides, dry farming, deep volcanic roots. Patience in the cellar; wines get bottle aging before release. Fits the broader spirit of Oregon winemaking, which prioritises place over technique.
The vineyard
Maresh Vineyard sits at 150-250 metres elevation, planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Pinot stocks come mainly from the original 1970 plantings; the Chardonnay block dates from 1983. Red Jory soil (ancient volcanic ash, rich in iron oxide) gives excellent drainage and the characteristic mineral undertone. Cool Pacific breezes through the Van Duzer Corridor preserve acidity.
Two bottles
Both wines needed air. Coravin with aerator only helped marginally; full uncorking and several hours in carafe is what really opened them. The Chardonnay showed light reduction that left in carafe; the Pinot Noir bouquet only bloomed after substantial aeration.
Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard 2018
Vines from 1983, fermented and aged in neutral oak so the fruit stays in front.
Pale gold. The nose carries lemon and juicy white peach, a touch of green apple, behind it vanilla, roasted almond, butter, nutmeg, light yeast and scorched oak. Subtle mineral note (wet stone after rain) and a whisper of flint.
On the palate fresh and refreshing, medium-plus acidity, ripe and silky. Lemon zest and mineral in the finish. Pairs with grilled halibut with lemon beurre blanc or creamy mushroom risotto.
Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2021
From the oldest vines on the property (1970 planting). Asks for aeration.
Medium ruby with garnet reflection. The nose carries ripe red cherry and wild strawberry, with leather, light coconut, nutmeg, pomegranate and rose. Behind that dried rose petal and an earthy forest-after-rain tone, with baking spice.
On the palate dry without harshness, medium-plus acidity, high but silky tannins. Red fruit up front, with earthy flavours and a cinnamon layer. Long finish with persistent cherry and mineral. Carafe or cellar a few years. Pairs with herb-roasted duck breast or a wild mushroom tart.
Verdict
Two wines that show what Oregon makes of its Burgundian climatic kinship: restrained, mineral-driven, on the oldest vines in Willamette Valley. The Chardonnay drinks at peak; the Pinot Noir asks for patience or a generous glass of time. A direct entry for drinkers ready to look beyond California.
More information: arterberrymaresh.com | bestofwines.com
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