Minimalist Wines: Simplicity and Elegance

9 July 2024 · 6 min read

Sponsored by Benier Global Wines

Winemaker

At Saam restaurant in Amstelveen, Sam Lambson pours his own wines and talks about Syrah from Cape Agulhas the way a geologist talks about rock layers. The South African winemaker behind Minimalist Wines is precise, technical, and a little obsessed. That matters, because “minimalist” gets slapped on plenty of bottles that are really just unfiltered marketing. The question I took home, courtesy of Benier Global Wines, was simple: does the label match the liquid?

The first round answers it. Smooth, fruity reds alongside crisp whites, all of them quiet and composed. No sulfur burn, no reduction making you reach for the window, no volatile acidity dressed up as “natural character”.

Minimal intervention here actually means what it claims: the grape and the place do the work. Honest, balanced, full of character. Wine geek or not, these bottles are worth your attention.

The Philosophy of Minimalist Wines

Sam works from one principle: as little intervention as possible. He cultures his own yeasts from the vineyard and keeps the cellar clean and terroir-driven. No bought-in yeasts, no corrections that paper over the site.

The Western Cape is built for blending; ocean influence, altitude, and varied soils give him contrasts to lean on. Sam’s technical streak shows up at the cork, which has a rocket on it. Above the parcels he flies drones, linking data to growth and stress per zone. Sounds gimmicky; in practice it means precise picking, smaller batches, cleaner outcomes.

Whats coming in the future?

Sam is building his own winery and vineyard. In the coming years, expect new blends, new cuvées, more innovation, and the first bottles from his own fruit. I’m looking forward to tasting what comes next.

My tasting notes of the wines

Big thanks to Benier Global Wines for letting me revisit these wines, this time at home. Sam’s stories were still in the room as I poured.

EXPERIMENTAL BLANC 2022 (90/100)

Sam focuses on Syrah but bottles small batches under the EXPERIMENTAL label. The vineyards are spread out: Stellenbosch Polkadraai Hills (Chardonnay), Stellenbosch Bottleray (Chenin Blanc), Stellenbosch Bonniemile (Muscat), Stellenbosch Helderberg (2020 Reserve Chardonnay), and Elgin Groenlandberg (Riesling).

The Coastal White blend is 34% Stellenbosch Chardonnay (skin-fermented for 11 days), 9% Stellenbosch Chardonnay, 26% Stellenbosch Old Vine Chenin, 17% Stellenbosch Old Vine Muscat (seven days on skins and stems), 11% 2020 Reserve Chardonnay, and 3% Elgin Riesling. Grapes harvested early, transported in refrigerated trucks, cooled overnight, then whole-bunch pressed or crushed. Natural fermentation in barrel. Vineyards stay separate, mature on lees, get racked, blended in spring, bottled in January.

Color: deep, vivid lemon yellow. Aromas pile on the fruit; lemon, lemon peel, apple, pear, vanilla, peach, apricot, melon, mango, passion fruit, with a touch of toast. Palate echoes the nose, dry, medium acidity, medium alcohol, medium-plus body, pretty intense. Long, satisfying finish.

Lovely now, can still age.

EXPERIMENTAL NOIR 2022 (88/100)

The red EXPERIMENTAL: 100% Grenache Noir from Botriver, Overberg, on sandstone soils. One-third whole bunch, one-third whole berry, one-third destemmed. Sam left Syrah out to keep the purity and elegance. Pick at dawn, fruit into 14kg crates, cooled overnight, then gentle foot-stomping and crushing. Natural fermentation in open and closed fermenters; maceration with daily pumpovers or punchdowns.

Light ruby color. Aromas hint at raspberry, strawberry, forest floor, damp earth, mushroom, orange peel, black currant, blackberry, leather, and red cherry. Palate fresh and earthy with blackberry notes, medium tannins, medium (+) acidity, medium (-) body, medium (-) flavor intensity. Medium finish, alcohol on point.

Drinks well now, can still age.

CONNECT THE DOTS 2021 (95/100)

For Sam, vineyard life is an expedition that connects people, places, and ideas. Syrah in the Cape’s cool micro-climates is his fixation. This label is his hunt for the best sites in the Winelands. Working with farmers who share his obsession with Syrah and precision viticulture, the goal is a snapshot of Cape Syrah from a given year, fused into one bottle; hence Connect The Dots.

The blend is 100% Syrah with a new addition from Agulhas: 84% Elgin, 9% Agulhas, 7% Stellenbosch. A cool vintage; slow start, high humidity, but the result is deeply colored and lush. Picked in the cool morning, cooled overnight, gently processed. Natural fermentation in open and closed fermenters with daily gentle maceration.

Nice medium ruby-red color. Intense nose: plum, dried plum, black cherry, blackberry, laurel, forest fruits, blueberry, black currant leaf, smoky notes, vanilla, clove, wild peach, coffee, chocolate, cocoa, coconut, rosemary, wet leaves, black pepper, cinnamon, cinnamon roll, butter, and cedarwood. Palate dry, medium-high acidity, medium-high tannins, medium alcohol, full body, medium intensity, long finish. Nutmeg and a touch of bitterness on the finish, with red and black currants.

Excellent now, can still age. What a wine.

STARS IN THE DARK 2021 (93/100)

“Some of the best things in life emerge from tough times and dark places.” The label motto points at the harsh growing conditions at Africa’s southern tip. The resilience of Syrah from Cape Agulhas is striking; the fruit comes from two cool, low-altitude parcels, 8km from the coast. One 21-year-old parcel sits on clay, the other (22-year-old) on Koffieklip. Matured for 10 months in neutral French oak.

The vintage threw everything at it: a hot dry August, cool spring, early leaf fall, uneven bud burst, persistent wind, and frequent showers during flowering. Late-season humidity brought Botrytis and Mildew, delaying harvest by three weeks. Lower yields, but the work in the vineyard paid off.

Nice medium ruby red. Pretty intense nose with eucalyptus, spices, cough syrup, black cherry, blackberries, laurel, forest fruits, blueberries, black currant leaf, vanilla, cocoa, rosemary, wet leaves, black pepper, green pepper, leather, tomato leaf, and tomatoes. Palate dry, medium-high acidity, high tannins, medium alcohol, full body. Long finish with nutmeg, bitterness, and black pepper.

Really good. Fantastic now, can still age a bit.

No place like home 2021 (95/100)

No Place Like Home is the second single-origin Syrah from Minimalist Wines, showing the cool-climate Elgin Valley as a counterpoint to Stars In The Dark from Cape Agulhas. The grapes come from a 3-hectare site in Elgin, planted in 2006 on Sandstone and Shale, leased and farmed by them. Using drones and soil analysis, they identified four distinct pockets, harvested and fermented them separately, then blended.

Each pick fermented over two weeks with 20% whole bunch and daily punchdowns, then aged 16 months in neutral 228L French oak. Syrah does well in Elgin, but farmers often pull vines out for more profitable apple orchards. Leasing Niemandsrivier is their first move toward keeping Syrah vineyards in the ground; this is meant to be home.

Medium garnet-red color. Pretty intense nose with cough syrup, gasoline, wet leaves, red cherries, blackberries, forest fruits, black cherries, and black pepper. Also laurel, sage, cinnamon, cinnamon roll, earthy notes, wet clay, leather, cacao, forest mushrooms, and cedarwood. Palate with medium (+) acidity, medium (+) tannins, medium body, medium alcohol.

Excellent. Drinks well now, will keep aging. The clearest case for what innovative winemaking can deliver when the maker leaves his ego at the door.

Conclusion

At Minimalist Wines, “minimalist” is a working method, not a sticker. Sam Lambson lets the grape and the site do the talking, backed by a clean cellar and a vineyard he knows down to the zone. Smooth, fruity reds or crisp whites; every glass stays honest, balanced, and recognizably from where it grew.

If you take winemaking seriously, or just want to drink well, try these bottles. Big thanks to Sam and Benier Global Wines for the chance to take my time with them.

More about Minimalist Wines: https://www.minimalistwines.com/

More about Benier Global Wines: https://www.benierglobalwines.nl/