Mâconnais Chardonnay: A Dutch-French Collaboration

At a wine fair, Jeroen van Wijndijck slid a glass of Mâconnais Chardonnay across the table. No big-name sticker, no château. Just a collaboration with French vigneron Gerard Boom in a corner of southern Burgundy most drinkers skip on their way to Pouilly-Fuissé.

Mâconnais in short

The hills around Mâcon run warmer than the Côte d’Or; the Rhône valley makes itself felt. That gives Chardonnay more weight without it turning sluggish. Alkaline clay and limestone keep the acidity upright.

What the region lacks: the dramatic relief of Meursault or Puligny. That is where the prestige sits; here, the value sits.

In the glass

Unmistakably Burgundian, unmistakably from a barrel: butter and vanilla on the nose, coconut and toasted oak in the background. Underneath, citrus (lime, lemon), tropical edges (pineapple, hint of banana) and stone fruit stitching it together.

The palate is full, creamy, oak generously present. Too rich for the Meursault purist; right on the money for anyone who likes a polished Mâcon style. The finish stays fresh despite the weight.

At the table

• Butter-poached lobster or scallops with cream sauce
• Chicken in cream or mustard sauce
• Aged Gruyère, mature Gouda
• Creamy mushroom risotto, roasted root vegetables

Skip the spicy Asian plates and the ripe goat cheeses; the oak gets in the way.

Final word

An honest bottle, not a peak performer and it doesn’t need to be. The value is in the find: a Chardonnay you won’t fish out of a supermarket bin, but priced under a dry Côte d’Or entry.

With thanks to Wijndijck for the pour.

Sources

• BIVB (Bourgogne Wines): bourgogne-wines.com
• INAO: inao.gouv.fr