Dry Tokaji: Hollóvár Furmint and Lenkey Hárslevelű

Tokaj is synonymous with sweet Aszú, but the dry side of the region is growing fast. Furmint and Hárslevelű on volcanic soils deliver tight, mineral-driven white wines that compare directly with dry Riesling from Alsace or Rheingau. Magwijnen sent two examples, a young Furmint from Hollóvár and an aged Hárslevelű from Lenkey, that show the range of the style.

Hollóvár Furmint 2020: Tokaj

100% Furmint from soils with stone, rhyolite and red clay. Organically farmed, hand picked, natural fermentation via gravity. Eight months élevage in Hungarian oak. 40 mg/L SO₂. Unfiltered, unfined. Winemaker Lajos Takács returned to Tokaj-Hegyalja in 2014 to build Hollóvár (founded 1997).

Bright yellow. The nose carries apple, pear, lime zest, a touch of lemon, with cinnamon and cardamom. On the palate fresh and complex: apple, pear, citrus, medium acidity, full body. Unexpected tobacco hint in the finish. Pairs with light salad or spicy Asian dishes.

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Lenkey Holdvölgy 2015: Tokaj

100% Hárslevelű on tuff stone, rhyolite, red clay and basalt. Organic, hand picked, whole-cluster fermentation. 3.5 years in Hungarian oak, then 2.5 years on bottle. Winemaker Géza has spent years experimenting with élevage techniques for both Aszú and dry wines.

Far more concentrated and complex than the younger Furmint. The nose carries hazelnut, orange zest, lemon, caramel, acacia. On the palate fruit and dried fruit, rich but still fresh. Floral acacia and elderflower, sweet chestnut, caramel, subtle cocoa underlay. A different level of Tokaji, aged style where the Furmint holds the fresh summer profile.

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Background

Tokaj has six white grape varieties, with Furmint (~60% of the area) and Hárslevelű (~30%) as the backbone. Volcanic soils and a continental climate give high acidity and minerality. Since the 1990s, pioneers like Disznókő and Hétszőlő, dry Tokaji has gained ground in production and international sales. The big shift: mid-harvest instead of early picking, lighter oak, fresher style.

Verdict

Two bottles, two styles. The Hollóvár Furmint for drinkers wanting summery mineral-driven white without sweet residue; the Lenkey Hárslevelű for those who appreciate six years of aged complexity in a big white style. Both via Magwijnen.

Thanks to Magwijnen for the bottles.

Sources

• Wines of Hungary: winesofhungary.org