Bodegas Raíces Ibéricas: Spain's Hidden Wine Treasures

In 2020 the local cooperative in Maluenda faced closure. Belgian entrepreneur Mark Schiettekat, active in Spanish wine since 1983, bought the operation and the vineyards. Not just jobs were saved; old Garnacha vines of 60+ years stayed productive, and what now operates as Bodegas Raíces Ibéricas has been working since on single-vineyard wines from Calatayud. The range tasted below covers the white Malvar and Albillo plus two single-vineyard Garnacha reds.

Terroir and vineyards

Vineyards span 600 to 1,100 metres above sea level. Slate-dominated soils (locally “Las Pizarras”) force vine roots deep, with natural yield reduction and concentrated fruit as the result. Continental climate with seasonal swings up to 40°C, daily fluctuations above 20°C, and the persistent Cierzo wind that keeps disease pressure naturally low.

Three core vineyards for the premium line:

Las Lomas: 650m, south-facing, slate with limestone. Old Garnacha vines of 60+ years.
Viña Alarba: 850m, foothills of the Sierra de Pardos. Low-yielding vines 60+ years old.
Viña Acered: above 800m, traditional bush-trained vines.

Winemaking

Minimal intervention, focus on single-vineyard cuvées, careful aging in French and American barrels, preservation of varietal character, indigenous varieties.

Four wines tasted

Raíces Malvar 2022: DO Madrid

Predominantly granitic with limestone, 650-750m altitude. Three months in French oak. 13% alcohol, medium+ acidity, medium body.

Bright pale lemon with green reflections. Nose of citrus zest, peach and subtle vanilla from oak, with white flowers and fresh herbs underneath. On the palate dry, fresh acidity, layers of stone fruit and wet-stone minerality. Long finish with an almond note. Drink now, holds quality 2-3 years.

Raíces Albillo 2022: DO Castilla León

Clay and limestone, high-altitude vineyards. No oak aging. Albillo is one of Spain’s oldest documented grapes (>2,000 years). 13.5% alcohol, high acidity, medium+ body.

Clear medium lemon with good viscosity. Aromatic profile: white flowers, jasmine, orange blossom, ripe red apple, almond blossom, with Mediterranean herbs. On the palate dry, impressive texture and weight, balance between fruit and high acidity. Long mineral-driven finish. Drink now.

Las Pizarras Las Lomas 2021: single-vineyard Garnacha

DO Calatayud, 650m altitude, 60+ year-old Garnacha vines on slate-dominated soil. Six months in 225L French oak. 14.5% alcohol. 92 pt Guía Peñín, 91 pt Decanter.

Deep ruby with purple rim. Complex bouquet: ripe black fruit (blackberry, black cherry), Mediterranean herbs (thyme, rosemary), distinctive slate minerality, subtle spice from oak. With time: violet, black pepper, wild herbs.

Full-bodied with refined, well-integrated tannins. Balance between fruit concentration and fresh acidity. Long finish with persistent fruit and mineral. Drinking well now, evolves 5-7 more years.

Las Pizarras Viña Alarba 2021: single-vineyard Garnacha

DO Calatayud, 850m altitude, slate and alluvial deposits, 60+ year-old vines. Six months in 225L French oak. 14.5% alcohol. 91 pt Guía Proensa, Mundus Vini Gold.

Deep purple-ruby with garnet rim. Complex bouquet: intense dark berries (blackberry, mulberry, plum), spice (black pepper, clove), floral notes (violet, dried rose), garrigue and subtle oak.

Full-bodied with impressive concentration and remarkable freshness. Long, complex finish with recurring fruit and spice. Will evolve positively for 7-10 years.

Verdict

Four wines that show what single-vineyard work in Calatayud can deliver when old vines are taken seriously. The Malvar and Albillo are clean, honest whites; the two Las Pizarras Garnachas are the wines you go to for structure and cellar potential.

Mark Schiettekat’s 2020 intervention saved more than a cooperative; the old Garnacha vines now form the base of a serious single-vineyard programme climbing toward the top of DO Calatayud.

Sources

Producer (official site)
Wines from Spain: foodswinesfromspain.com