Bedoba Orange 2021: Georgian Qvevri Wine Reviewed

Dried apricot, wild honey, orange peel and a herbal note that recalls garrigue. That’s how the Bedoba Orange 2021 opened up in my glass. An amber wine from Kakheti, in Georgia, made from Rkatsiteli and Kisi. Bedoba sent me two bottles.

The estate and the name

Bedoba is in Kakheti, Georgia’s main wine region. The name means “day of happiness”: that’s what Georgians call the second day of the new year, when they welcome good fortune.

The estate works with qvevri, large clay vessels buried in the ground. The method is on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage. Bedoba combines it with modern cellar equipment and ferments with indigenous yeasts.

Two vineyards

Seventy percent is Rkatsiteli, from 25-year-old vines on blue slate. The roots reach eight metres deep and give concentration. The other thirty percent is Kisi, from younger vines on limestone, in a cooler microclimate against the hills. It brings freshness.

The Rkatsiteli was picked in late October, fully ripe. The Kisi came in earlier that month, to keep its acidity.

Tasting Note

Tasting Note

Appearance

Deep amber with golden highlights, bright, medium viscosity.

Nose

Pronounced. Dried apricot, wild honey, orange peel and a herbal layer that recalls garrigue.

Palate

Dry, medium-plus body, 13% alcohol. Silky yet structured, with fine-grained tannins. The nose returns, with subtle oak notes and a mineral undertone. 5.0 g/l residual sugar against 5.2 g/l acidity.

Quality

Outstanding: complex, long and balanced.

What to watch for

First, don’t serve it ice-cold. I found it at its best around 16 degrees, like a red wine. Served cold, it doesn’t show what it has.

Second, where does the oak come from? My note mentions oak, yet qvevri are made of clay. Bedoba uses modern equipment alongside qvevri, but I don’t know what role wood plays. If you’re after a pure qvevri profile, it’s worth asking.

Third, the drinking window. I wrote that it would drink well until at least 2026. That’s now. If you still have a bottle, open it sooner rather than later.

At the table

This wine can take the place of a red. I loved it with roast quail and saffron rice. Grilled aubergine with pomegranate molasses works too, as does creamy goat’s cheese with honey.

Producer

Bedoba, Kakheti

Wine

Orange

Vintage

2021

Region

Kakheti, Georgia

Grapes

Rkatsiteli (70%), Kisi (30%)

Soil

Blue slate (Rkatsiteli), limestone (Kisi)

Method

Qvevri and modern cellar, indigenous yeasts

Analysis

13% alcohol, 5.0 g/l residual sugar, 5.2 g/l acidity

Serving temperature

Around 16 °C

Sources

• My own tasting note, 2024
• National Wine Agency of Georgia: georgianwine.gov.ge
• UNESCO, traditional Georgian qvevri winemaking: ich.unesco.org