Chenin Challenge 2023: South Africa's Best Chenin

The Chenin Challenge 2023

The tenth edition of the Chenin Challenge is also its first international edition. Unlike other competitions, this one focuses exclusively on Chenin Blanc from South Africa. Powered by Standard Bank and run by the Chenin Blanc Association, it puts the best of this grape in the spotlight every year.

The Chenin Challenge brings together a wide range of Chenin Blancs from different regions across South Africa. It gives winemakers a platform for the work they do with a grape that has become a cornerstone of South African winemaking. The format is more than naming a champion. It celebrates the breadth of what Chenin can do, and it builds a network where winemakers connect, share notes and inspire each other.

Ina Smith and Malu Lambert

Ina Smith and Malu Lambert are two leading voices in the South African wine scene. Both have spent their careers on Chenin Blanc.

Ina Smith manages the Chenin Blanc Association and has been central to lifting the reputation of South African Chenin both at home and internationally. With her deep knowledge of the grape, she has helped position South African Chenin Blanc as a world-class variety.

Malu Lambert is a wine writer and WSET educator known for her articles, reviews and education work. She also judged this Challenge. Her contribution sits in explaining the nuances of Chenin to a wider audience. Talking with both of them was a real pleasure.

Chenin Blanc in South Africa: history and significance

Chenin Blanc has been grown in South Africa for over 350 years; one of the oldest wine grapes in the region. It accounts for a significant share of vineyard area and is woven into the country’s identity as a wine producer.

Generations of winemakers have shaped their style around it. The grape has also been a driver of experimentation: from crisp dry whites and oaked versions to sparkling and dessert wines. That versatility is what makes Chenin special in the South African context.

A global rise

While Chenin has long been a mainstay of South African winemaking, broader international recognition came only in recent years. Better winemaking, more focused marketing and growing appreciation for what the grape can do all played a part.

Internationally, Chenin is now taken seriously for its complexity and aging potential. Not just as a quality varietal, but as a vehicle for terroir. That recognition has put South Africa on the map as one of the leading Chenin producers in the world.

The 2023 Top 10

The Standard Bank Chenin Challenge 2023 picked a top ten from 144 entries. Styles vary widely, and what stood out: the differences are not subtle. They are clearly audible in the glass.

The nose offers ripe fruit, floral notes, honey and spice. The palate brings well-balanced acidity, depth and a long finish. But it is not just about what you taste. These ten wines also tell a story about their vineyards, makers and the South African terroir.

Tasting the top ten

The selection was served in two flights:

Durbanville Hills Collectors Reserve The Cape Garden Chenin Blanc 2022. Pleasantly round, fresh, lively, with a hint of fresh grass and gentle peach.

Lievland Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022. Plenty of vanilla and exotic fruit with fresh acidity.

Stellenrust Stellenbosch Manor Barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc 2022. Acidity, apple and pear with a flinty hint.

Stellenrust Stellenbosch Manor Barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc 2021. Crushed stones, reduction, floral, flinty, exotic fruit. Round, with a soft, long finish. Reminds me of a mature Riesling with a hint of petrol.

Flagstone Paradigm Chenin Blanc Reserve 2020. Dry, high acidity, flint, pear and lime.

Antonij Rupert Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2021. Lots of exotic fruit, ripe pear, multiple layers of flavor and a long finish. Surprisingly fresh given its origin in the hot Swartland: the vineyard sits at altitude, which produces a cooler microclimate.

Stellenrust B28 (Fairtrade) Chenin Blanc 2022. Sharp and spicy with white pepper, ginger and lemon pepper. Apricot, green apple and lime zest.

Stellenrust Next Level Chenin Blanc 2022. Vines planted in 1964. Concentrated, mature, developed. Round, joyful, with waxy notes, vanilla, stone fruit and a botrytis-rich edge.

KWV The Mentors Chenin Blanc 2021. Smoky, baked pear, vanilla, ripe fruit, clay and steely flavors with crisp acidity.

Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Chenin Blanc 2022. Elegant exotic fruit with a soft, long finish. A relaxed glass.

What I take away

A tasting is more than tasting. Ina, Malu and the Stellenrust winemaker shared a lot of context. A few things stick.

Many old Chenin vineyards exist because of the high demand of the 1960s, when the market wanted white wine. Grape prices later dropped too low to keep the operations profitable, but there was no money to replant. That is why so many old vines are still standing.

Old vines are like older people: they have worked hard and they know their surroundings. Adapted to the terroir, with deep roots and years of experience reading the climate. Their grapes carry more concentration and deeper flavors. They have learned to survive.

The differences between Chenins come from terroir, vine age, climate and the winemaker’s work in balancing acidity, sugar and pH. Wild yeasts and terroir expression matter here: that is how you capture the real signature of the vineyard.

South African Chenin offers strong value for money. Many wines in this top ten are under €25, which makes them very accessible.

Lunch

After the tasting we sat down to a braai-inspired lunch. Each course paired with the top ten or with personal favorites.

First small bites, then prawn and suurvyg tomato finished with grated salted ostrich egg. Next, corvina with eel and honeybush, followed by crunchy eggplant with ginger and sorghum. Main course: veal with mealie meal and peach, paired with a special wine the Stellenrust winemaker brought along: a barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc magnum 2013 from 49-year-old vines. Full, intense, elegant. A great match with the veal.

What sets South African Chenin apart

So what sets South African Chenin Blanc apart? Its ability to mirror the diversity of South African terroir. Whether the vines grow on the cool coast or in the hot interior, Chenin adapts and produces wines with a clear signature.

Then there is balance. Acidity alongside ripe fruit, minerality next to freshness, complexity without weight. That balance makes Chenin versatile: as an aperitif, with food, or on its own.

And there is aging potential. Drinkable young, but also capable of evolving over time. That makes South African Chenin a grape worth following.

The role of the Standard Bank Chenin Challenge

The Challenge plays an important role in promoting South African Chenin. By giving the best examples a platform, it raises visibility of quality and diversity.

It also drives innovation. Wineries that push boundaries and express their terroir get rewarded. The Challenge attracts international judges and media, which spreads knowledge about South African Chenin further.

Personal insights from Ina and Malu

Ina Smith and Malu Lambert are passionate advocates of Chenin Blanc. They are working on a book about the grape, scheduled for 2024.

For Ina, Chenin captures South African winemaking better than any other variety. She sees it as the best vehicle for showing the country’s terroir diversity and the creativity of its winemakers.

Malu values Chenin most for its complexity and aging potential. The range of styles fascinates her, and the grape keeps surprising her. Thanks to both for the conversation.

Final thoughts

The Standard Bank Chenin Challenge 2023 showed the quality and diversity of South African Chenin Blanc. The top ten wines represent the upper tier of South African winemaking and capture the character of their terroirs.

Chenin’s global rise reflects its versatility, complexity and ability to express terroir. South African Chenin has earned its place as a serious player. Raise a glass to its rich history, cultural significance and bright future. Cheers. #drinkchenin

Thanks to team Saam, Koen and Margot, Ina and Malu for organizing.

More on the Chenin Challenge: https://www.chenin.co.za/chenin-challenge. More on Ina Smith and the Chenin Blanc Association: https://www.chenin.co.za/.