Opening the latest bottles from Tenuta Alzatura reminds me why I fell in love with Italian wines. This remarkable estate, nestled in the heart of Umbria and part of the prestigious Famiglia Cecchi portfolio, is redefining central Italian white wines. Their focus? The captivating yet often-overlooked Trebbiano Spoletino grape.
A Philosophy Rooted in Organic Practices
Tenuta Alzatura’s journey is one of commitment and transformation. In 2018, they embarked on a mission to convert their entire 29-hectare estate to organic viticulture. By 2021, they’d achieved full organic certification – a testament to their dedication to sustainable winemaking practices.
But why go organic? As I swirl the first glass, the answer becomes clear. These wines are pure and intense, speaking volumes about their provenance. The estate’s director, Alessandro Mariani, once told me, “Organic farming isn’t just about what we don’t do; it’s about fostering a living, breathing ecosystem in our vineyards.” This philosophy shines through in every sip.
Vineyards: A Tapestry of Terroir
Spread across three distinct plots – Alzatura, Monterone, and San Marco – the estate’s vineyards are a microcosm of Umbrian diversity. Each site brings its unique soil composition and microclimate to the table, contributing to the complexity that’s become Tenuta Alzatura’s calling card.
At an elevation of 370 meters above sea level, these vineyards enjoy optimal conditions for grape growing. The mixed soil structure, coupled with meticulous vineyard management (think 5,000 vines per hectare and Guyot pruning), ensures that each bunch of Trebbiano Spoletino reaches its full potential.
Trebbiano Spoletino: Umbria’s White Wine Revolution
While Montefalco might be synonymous with robust reds like Sagrantino, Tenuta Alzatura is leading a white wine revolution with Trebbiano Spoletino. This ancient variety is a winemaker’s dream – vigorous, resilient, and blessed with naturally high acidity. It’s this last quality that makes it particularly exciting for age-worthy whites.
Tasting Notes: A Deep Dive into Tenuta Alzatura’s Trebbiano Spoletino
As I settle in to taste these wines, I’m struck by how they each showcase different facets of Trebbiano Spoletino. I’ve chosen to use Zalto Universal glasses for both, allowing me to fully appreciate their aromatic complexity and texture. Let’s dive in.
Aria di Casa Montefalco DOC Bianco 2021
Appearance: In the glass, this wine displays a deep lemon color with pronounced golden reflections, hinting at its time in oak. The wine’s viscosity is evident as I swirl, with slow-forming legs suggesting both concentration and alcohol.
Nose: The bouquet is immediately striking and complex. Initial aromas of ripe citrus – think preserved lemon and grapefruit zest – mingle with stone fruits like white peach and apricot. As the wine opens up, floral notes emerge: acacia blossom and elderflower, adding a delicate lift to the nose.
The oak influence is beautifully integrated, contributing aromas of vanilla bean, toasted almonds, and a subtle hint of coconut. With more time in the glass, tertiary aromas begin to surface: a touch of beeswax, dried herbs, and a faint honey note that adds intrigue and depth.
Palate: Dry, with high, mouthwatering acidity that’s perfectly balanced by the wine’s full body and 13% alcohol. The texture is rich and almost creamy, likely a result of lees aging. Flavors mirror the nose, with ripe citrus and stone fruit at the forefront, followed by that complex interplay of floral and oak-derived notes.
Mid-palate, a distinctive mineral character emerges – think wet stone and a subtle salinity that speaks to the terroir. The finish is impressively long, easily persisting for 30+ seconds, with lingering notes of toasted nuts, citrus zest, and that intriguing hint of honey.
Quality: Very good to outstanding. This wine shows excellent complexity, balance, and length, with the potential for further development over the next 5-7 years.
Food Pairing: The wine’s full body and complex flavor profile would stand up beautifully to rich seafood dishes. I’d love to try this with a lobster risotto or pan-seared sea bass with a butter sauce.
Production details:
- 3,000 bottles produced
- 100% Trebbiano Spoletino
- 10 months in barriques, 6 months in bottle
- 13% ABV
Cortili Montefalco DOC Bianco 2023
Appearance: This wine presents a bright, deep lemon color with subtle golden hues at the core. It’s slightly less viscous than the Aria di Casa, which is expected given its youth and different winemaking approach.
Nose: The aromatics leap from the glass, showcasing Trebbiano Spoletino’s exuberant side. There’s an explosion of tropical fruits – ripe pineapple, passion fruit, and a hint of lychee – followed closely by citrus notes of lime zest and white grapefruit.
The floral component is pronounced and beautifully fresh: hawthorn blossoms dominate, accompanied by jasmine and a touch of chamomile. As the wine breathes, subtle herbal notes emerge – think fresh tarragon and a hint of fennel frond. There’s also an intriguing mineral undercurrent, reminiscent of crushed chalk.
Palate: Dry, with high, crisp acidity that provides excellent structure and freshness. The body is medium(+), substantial enough to balance the acidity but still maintaining a sense of vivacity and energy.
The palate closely follows the nose, with that explosion of tropical and citrus fruits leading the charge. The mineral character is more pronounced on the palate than the nose, providing a saline, almost savoury counterpoint to the fruit.
Mid-palate, there’s a subtle creaminess that adds texture without detracting from the wine’s overall freshness. The finish is medium(+) in length, concluding with lingering notes of citrus zest, white flowers, and that distinctive chalky minerality.
Quality: Good to very good. While not as complex as the Aria di Casa, this wine shows excellent varietal character, balance, and a purity of fruit that’s truly compelling.
Food Pairing: The wine’s vibrant acidity and pronounced fruit character would make it an excellent partner for fresh seafood. I’m envisioning a plate of raw oysters or a zesty ceviche.
Production details:
- 11,000 bottles produced
- 100% Trebbiano Spoletino
- Minimum 6 months in bottle
- 12.5% ABV
Both wines beautifully showcase the versatility of Trebbiano Spoletino, demonstrating how winemaking choices can highlight different aspects of this fascinating grape variety. The Aria di Casa offers a more serious, age-worthy expression, while the Cortili captures the grape’s youthful exuberance. Together, they comprehensively picture Tenuta Alzatura’s terroir and winemaking philosophy.
Recent Developments: Sustainability in Action
Tenuta Alzatura’s commitment to sustainability goes beyond organic certification. Recent initiatives include installing solar panels to reduce its carbon footprint and implementing water-saving irrigation techniques. It’s also experimenting with cover crops to improve soil health and biodiversity in the vineyards.
Why Wine Lovers Should Take Note
What Tenuta Alzatura is doing with Trebbiano Spoletino is nothing short of revolutionary. They’re not just producing excellent wines but redefining what’s possible with central Italian white varietals. For wine enthusiasts looking to explore beyond the usual suspects, these wines offer a compelling journey into the heart of Umbrian terroir.
With its complexity and aging potential, the Aria di Casa is a wine that deserves a place in any serious collector’s cellar. The Cortili, on the other hand, is perfect for those everyday moments when you want a wine that’s a cut above the ordinary.
As I finish the last drops in my glass, I remember why I love writing about wine. It’s about discovery, about finding those hidden gems that make you sit up and take notice. Tenuta Alzatura is definitely one of those gems. Their commitment to organic viticulture, combined with their focus on an indigenous variety like Trebbiano Spoletino, results in wines that are not just delicious, but also tell a compelling story of place and passion.
So, the next time you’re browsing the Italian section of your wine shop, keep an eye out for Tenuta Alzatura. These wines are more than just a taste of Umbria – they’re a glimpse into the future of Italian white wines. Salute!
Thanks for sending me these bottles, Tenuta Alzatura!
More information about Tenuta Alzatura: https://www.tenuta-alzatura.it/
