Among Pierre Goiset’s remarkable lineup, Le Quéry 2022 stands apart as a profound expression of truly ancient vines. This captivating white emerges from Melon Blanc vines planted between 1920 and 1960 on pure granite soils in the Le Quéry parcel of Maisdon-sur-Sèvre—some nearing their centennial birthday.
These elderly vines, with roots penetrating deep into Muscadet’s granitic bedrock, yield extraordinarily concentrated fruit despite naturally restricted quantities. Goiset’s horse-powered farming approach, combined with biodynamic preparations and herbal treatments, allows these veterans to express their full potential while respecting the delicate ecosystem they’ve been part of for nearly a century.
In the cellar, Goiset’s touch remains deliberately light. After careful harvesting to preserve the precious fruit, indigenous yeasts conduct fermentation at their own unhurried pace. The wine then rests for 11 months in neutral fiber tanks, allowing the inherent mineral complexity from the granite soils to develop fully without any oak influence masking the terroir.
The resulting wine presents a deeper golden amber hue than its sibling La Mauguit, hinting at the concentration achieved from these ancient vines. The artistic label—featuring abstract shapes in purple, orange, and green—mirrors the wine’s multidimensional character.
At 12.5% alcohol, Le Quéry maintains Muscadet’s characteristic brightness while delivering remarkable depth. The palate reveals layers of ripe golden apple, pear, and subtle citrus notes, with a distinctive granitic mineral tension providing structure and a subtle phenolic grip that speaks to the wine’s unfiltered, natural character.
This cuvée particularly excels with more substantial seafood dishes—try it with grilled sea bass, lobster with herb butter, or traditional regional pike-perch in beurre blanc. The wine’s textural elements and understated power match beautifully with these richer preparations.
Le Quéry exemplifies Goiset’s philosophy that genuine terroir expression requires patience—both in the decades-long development of the vines and in the unhurried winemaking approach that allows each vintage to reveal itself naturally. For those fortunate enough to find a bottle, it offers a rare glimpse into Muscadet’s true potential when ancient vines meet thoughtful natural winemaking.
