As I sit here with an elegant array of bottles from Champagne Dumangin J. Fils, I’m struck by how this historic house, established in 1884 in Chigny-les-Roses, has masterfully reimagined one of Champagne’s best-kept secrets, Ratafia Champenois. Located in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, this family-owned house has created an exceptional Ratafia collection that showcases tradition and innovation.
Champagne Dumangin J. Fils, nestled in the picturesque village of Chigny-les-Roses since 1884, has been quietly revolutionizing Ratafia production. While most of the world obsesses over their bubbles (and rightfully so), this historic house has been crafting what might be one of the most interesting Ratafia collections I’ve encountered. What makes these bottles particularly fascinating is Dumangin’s approach. Rather than producing just one or two expressions, they’ve created an entire range that explores the individual personalities of each Champagne grape variety. Each bottle tells its story, from the delicate “Finesse” of pure Chardonnay to the powerful “Force” of Pinot Noir. The samples before me represent five distinct interpretations of Ratafia Champenois. There’s the rosé “Délicatesse,” the barrel-aged “Craft,” and three single-varietal expressions that showcase Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier uniquely. It’s like having a liquid lesson in Champagne’s terroir and grape varieties, just expressed through a different lens. Thanks for sending me these great bottles!
Winemaking Philosophy
What sets Dumangin apart is its commitment to expressing the pure character of each grape variety through its Ratafia production. “Our Ratafias Champenois explode with quality, respect for their terroirs, and their grape varieties, and bring pleasure at all levels,” explains its philosophy statement. This isn’t just marketing speak—each bottle in its collection demonstrates a meticulous approach to highlighting varietal character.
The house employs different aging techniques for different cuvées, from stainless steel vessels that preserve freshness and varietal character to second-hand barrels from the Northern Rhône that add complexity and depth. Their respect for tradition is evident in their adherence to PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) standards, while their innovative spirit shows in their single-varietal expressions.
Vineyard Details
The grapes for Dumangin’s Ratafia come from their vineyards in the Montagne de Reims, a region renowned for its chalk soils and optimal exposure for grape growing. The house works with the three classic Champagne varieties:
- Chardonnay: Grown on chalk-rich soils, providing finesse and acidity
- Pinot Noir: Contributing structure and power
- Meunier: Adding fruit character and roundness
Each variety is carefully managed to achieve optimal ripeness, which is essential for creating high-quality Ratafia. The chalky terroir imparts a distinctive mineral character that carries through to the final products.
Wine Details with personal tasting notes
Having received several bottles for tasting, I’m impressed by the range’s diversity. Here are my detailed notes:
Ratafia Rosé “Délicatesse”
I knew I was in for a treat. This beautiful rosé showcases Dumangin’s unique approach to Ratafia production through skin maceration. The “Délicatesse” cuvée stands out for its exceptional blend of all three Champagne grape varieties, macerated together to create something truly distinctive.
Technical Details:
- Blend: 50% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay
- Harvest: 2019
- ABV: 17%
- Aging: Stainless steel to preserve color and taste
- Production: A few hundred bottles only
Tasting Notes:
- Appearance: Intense rose color with brilliant clarity
- Nose: Rich confectionery aromas leap from the glass
- Palate: Vibrant, tangy notes reminiscent of English candy with impressive length
- Best Served: 12-15°C
Food Pairing: The confectionery notes make this perfect with desserts, though it would also shine alongside aged hard cheeses.
Affinage Sous Bois “Craft”
This is where things get really interesting! The “Craft” cuvée is Dumangin’s love letter to barrel aging. It’s a multi-vintage masterpiece that spends significant time in second-hand Northern Rhône wine barrels, developing this gorgeous amber color that just catches the light beautifully.
Technical Details:
- Blend: Pinot Noir (1/3), Meunier (2/3)
- Multi-vintage: 2002-2013
- ABV: 18%
- Aging: Minimum 6 years, averaging 9 years in 228L barrels
- Production: Roughly 3,500 bottles annually
Tasting Notes:
- Appearance: Deep amber with golden highlights
- Nose: Complex layered aromas of matured fruits
- Palate: Rich, with remarkable depth and exceptional length
- Best Served: 12-15°C
Food Pairing: I dream of pairing this with an 18-month Comté or a decadent chocolate dessert.
Ratafia de Chardonnay “Finesse”
This is pure elegance in a bottle! The “Finesse” cuvée really shows what Chardonnay can do in Ratafia form. What’s fascinating is how Dumangin specifically chose Chardonnay from their chalk-rich soils in Montagne de Reims, which brings this incredible finesse, acidity, and length to their champagnes and, as I’m discovering, to their Ratafia as well.
Technical Details:
- Grape: 100% Chardonnay from Montagne de Reims
- Harvest: 2019
- ABV: 17%
- Aging: Stainless steel to preserve finesse
- Production: Roughly 1,200 bottles
- Awards: 2020 Gold Medal
Tasting Notes:
- Appearance: Brilliant pale gold
- Nose: Enticing fruit paste aromas
- Palate: Intense peach notes with beautiful acidity length
- Best Served: 12-15°C
Food Pairing: I’m particularly excited about trying this as an aperitif or with some fresh sashimi – the finesse and acidity would work beautifully here.
Ratafia de Pinot Noir “Force”
Now, here’s where we get into the powerful stuff! The “Force” cuvée is Dumangin’s expression of pure Pinot Noir, and it absolutely delivers on its name. For Champagne Dumangin J. Fils, Pinot Noir is crucial for providing structure to their non-vintage wines, and this same principle carries through to their Ratafia.
Technical Details:
- Grape: 100% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims
- Harvest: 2019
- ABV: 17%
- Aging: Stainless steel to preserve finesse
- Production: Roughly 1,200 bottles
- Awards: 2020 Gold Medal
Tasting Notes:
- Appearance: Clear amber
- Nose: Fascinating peppery notes with a distinctive Sichuan pepper character
- Palate: Beautiful candied fruits, especially morello cherries, with impressive acidity length
- Best Served: 12-15°C
Food Pairing: While it’s suggested as a pre-dinner drink or sashimi, I imagine it would be fantastic with spiced duck or even mature cheeses.
Ratafia de Meunier “Fruit”
Last but definitely not least, we have the “Fruit” cuvée, which showcases the often-underappreciated Meunier grape. In the Montagne de Reims, Meunier plays a crucial role for Dumangin, bringing intense fruit character to their non-vintage wines and contributing to the typical fruit profile of their iconic “Le Rosé” vintage.
Technical Details:
- Grape: 100% Meunier from Montagne de Reims
- Harvest: 2019
- ABV: 17%
- Aging: Stainless steel to preserve fruitiness
- Production: Roughly 1,200 bottles
- Awards: 2020 Silver Medal
Tasting Notes:
- Appearance: Deep amber with ruby hints
- Nose: Vibrant citrus, particularly lemon and orange zest
- Palate: Lovely stone fruits (notably apricot) with a persistent acidic finish
- Best Served: 12-15°C
Food Pairing: While it works beautifully as an aperitif or with sashimi, I’d love to experiment with this alongside fresh fruit desserts or mildly spiced Asian dishes.
What makes this collection truly special is how each expression tells its own story while remaining true to Dumangin’s philosophy of quality and terroir respect. Each bottle proudly carries the protected geographical indication “Ratafia Champenois,” representing wine and a piece of Champagne’s rich heritage.
Having tasted through the entire range, I’m impressed by how each wine maintains its individual character while clearly belonging to the same family. The attention to detail in production, from grape selection to aging choices, really shows in the final products.
Recent Developments
The house has recently garnered significant recognition for its Ratafia program, with both its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir expressions winning gold medals in 2020. Its limited production strategy (roughly 1,200 bottles per variety) ensures quality control and exclusivity.
Conclusion
Dumangin’s Ratafia collection represents a fascinating exploration of what’s possible with this traditional Champagne product. Their methodical approach to varietal expression, combined with varying aging techniques, has resulted in a range that deserves serious attention from wine enthusiasts. These aren’t merely sweet wines – they’re complex, terroir-driven expressions that showcase the best of what Champagne can offer beyond sparkling wines.
Thank you again for sending me these bottles and making this experience possible. I learned so much.
More information: https://champagne-dumangin.fr/
