Dancing with Bubbles: An Autumn Champagne Lunch at Restaurant de Dyck

The Setting: Where Garden Meets Glass

Nestled in the charming village of Woubrugge, Restaurant de Dyck has earned a reputation—and a green Michelin star—for transforming their kitchen garden’s bounty into culinary art. The restaurant’s extensive garden, visible from the sun-filled dining room, serves as a source of ingredients and the creative foundation for its entire culinary program. Each dish begins with what’s thriving in their plots, and their wine pairings are thoughtfully selected to enhance these garden-fresh flavors rather than overshadow them. Upon arriving at noon, I was immediately struck by the restaurant’s unique approach to wine pairing—a philosophy that lets the garden dictate the menu. Instead of starting with traditional protein-centered dishes and finding wines to match, they begin with their garden’s seasonal vegetables, creating compositions that challenge conventional wine-pairing wisdom.

Opening Notes: Garden’s First Whispers

Amuse: Onion and kohlrabi variations
Champagne: Marx-Coutelas Tradition Brut
Blend: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Region: Vallée de la Marne
Dégorgement: 12-2023

Our journey began with Marx-Coutelas’s traditional blend, a perfect introduction to the house’s style. The Champagne’s fresh profile created an elegant backdrop for the delicate interplay between sweet onion and crisp kohlrabi. This thoughtful pairing set the tone for the afternoon, demonstrating how garden vegetables can dance gracefully with fine bubbles. As de Dyck’s house champagne, it’s easy to see why it’s a favorite. Fresh, accessible, and friendly, it’s also a severe champagne that appeals to many palates.

Breaking Bread

The arrival of sourdough bread with two distinctive butters—one a smoked goat’s milk butter, the other celebrating the local Groene Hart region—provided an additional layer of terroir appreciation. Each spread offered a different perspective on local craftsmanship, much like the Champagnes would throughout our meal.

First Course: Earth Meets Sky

Dish: Carrot with Douglas fir, sea buckthorn, and curry plant
Champagne: Pierre Gerbais Grain de Celles Extra Brut
Blend: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc
Region: Aube Dégorgement: 04-2024

The first course presented an intriguing dialogue between earth and air. The Grain de Celles, with its rare inclusion of Pinot Blanc, provided a crystalline framework for the carrot’s sweet earthiness. Served in an oversized glass to allow the Champagne to bloom fully, this unique blend brought a mineral precision that beautifully counterpointed the sweet carrot and exotic curry notes. Douglas fir added an unexpected forest note that harmonized with the wine’s mineral character, while sea buckthorn’s bright acidity amplified the Champagne’s vibrant nature. The pairing’s structure perfectly matched the citrusy punch of sea buckthorn, creating a truly exceptional combination that showcased the sommelier’s expertise in crafting flawless pairings.

Second Course: Fire and Ice

Dish: Leek with jalapeño, verbena, and farmhouse cheese
Champagne: Domaine Rousseaux-Batteux Blanc de Noir Extra Brut
Grape: 100% Pinot Noir
Region: Montagne de Reims Dégorgement: 09-2024

This pairing showcased the versatility of Pinot Noir. Rousseaux-Batteux’s precise Blanc de Noirs offered power and finesse from their cherished plots in Montagne de Reims. The marriage with leek was inspired—the Champagne’s structure supported the jalapeño’s heat while harmonizing with the creamy cheese. Verbena added crucial citrus notes that bridged wine and dish. The concentrated power of pure Pinot Noir provided a robust framework for the spicy jalapeño, while its chalky minerality complemented the rich cheese and aromatic verbena.

This Champagne was my favorite of the lunch, thanks to its structure, body, and perfect balance between sharp acidity and smooth fruitiness. The combination demonstrated the de Dyck team’s expertise in crafting a flawless pairing!

Third Course: A Producer’s Range, Depth, and Complexity

Dish: Fennel with onion, buckwheat, and black currant
Wine: Domaine Marx-Coutelas les Grande Jardins, Coteaux Rouge 2020
Grape: Pinot Noir
Region: Vallée de la Marne

In a fascinating twist, we revisited Marx-Coutelas, this time exploring their still red wine. This Pinot Noir showcased the producer’s versatility, demonstrating their skill in crafting fine Champagne and elegant still wines. The wine’s red fruit character created an unexpected yet perfect harmony with the fennel’s anise notes, while the buckwheat provided earthy undertones that anchored the pairing. The flavors danced together brilliantly, with the wine’s red fruit notes harmonizing with the black currant while supporting the anise notes of fennel. This unexpected pairing from Champagne territory was a sublime match, highlighting the chef’s creativity and the sommelier’s expertise in crafting unique and memorable flavor combinations.

Fourth Course: Sweet Sophistication

Dish: Yogurt with elderflower, pearl barley, and rose
Champagne: Joseph Perrier Demi-Sec
Blend: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Region: Vallée de la Marne Dégorgement: 01-2023

Joseph Perrier’s Demi-Sec exemplified why this historic house has held royal warrants since Victorian times. The generously styled Champagne harmonized perfectly with the dessert, its sweetness counterbalanced by precise acidity. Elderflower and rose elements in the dish created ethereal links to the wine’s floral notes. Surprisingly, this pairing wasn’t overly sweet; it offered a delightful interplay of sweet and savory flavors. With their subtle sweetness and smooth mousse, the bubbles elevated the entire experience.

Final Flourish

Dish: Blackberry with rosemary, pine, and hazelnut
Wine: Goutorbe Bouillot Ratafia Champenois
Blend: Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier
Region: Vallée de la Marne

The finale introduced us to Ratafia, Champagne’s traditional fortified wine. This rare treat from Goutorbe Bouillot offered a contemplative end to our meal. Its rich character harmonized beautifully with the forest fruits and nuts, while the rosemary and pine notes added aromatic complexity. It was the perfect conclusion to our culinary journey!