As I pour a glass of Arterberry Maresh’s Chardonnay, the golden liquid catches the light, hinting at hidden treasures. This boutique winery, nestled in Oregon’s Dundee Hills, was new to me, as was Oregon wine in general. I’m thrilled to collaborate with Best of Wines to taste these wines and share their story. Though younger than California’s, Oregon’s wine industry has quickly gained recognition for producing exceptional wines, particularly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Arterberry Maresh’s home is the prestigious Maresh Vineyard, a site with a rich history dating back to 1970. One of the oldest in the Willamette Valley, this vineyard sits on the prized red volcanic Jory soils that define the Dundee Hills AVA. The winery’s story is one of legacy and passion, with Jim Maresh Jr. continuing the tradition his grandfather, Jim Maresh Sr., began when he planted the original vines over five decades ago.
Oregon’s Willamette Valley uniquely suits cool-climate varieties, unlike California’s sun-drenched vineyards or Washington state’s varied terroirs. The region’s climate, heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean, resembles Burgundy more than Napa. This climatic similarity has earned Oregon the moniker “Burgundy of the New World,” with its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays often exhibiting Old World elegance and restraint.
Winemaking Philosophy
Arterberry Maresh’s winemaking philosophy is refreshingly straightforward: let the vineyard speak. Jim Maresh Jr., the current winemaker, embraces a minimalist intervention approach that showcases the true character of the Dundee Hills terroir. (I love it!) This aligns closely with the broader ethos of Oregon winemaking, which prioritizes expressing a sense of place over heavy-handed techniques.
The winery’s commitment to sustainability shines through in its vineyard management. It eschews herbicides and practices dry farming, encouraging vines to dig deep into the volcanic soils. This process extracts minerals and develops complex flavors. Such a focus on sustainability is a hallmark of Oregon viticulture, contrasting with the more intensive farming methods often seen in California’s larger wine regions.
What impresses me most about Arterberry Maresh is their patience. Unlike many producers who rush to market, they hold back their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, allowing them to develop in the bottle before release. This approach yields wines of remarkable depth and complexity.
Oregon’s cooler climate presents unique challenges and opportunities for winemakers. While California often grapples with overripeness and high alcohol levels, Oregon’s vintners must carefully manage their vineyards to achieve full ripeness before autumn rains arrive. This balancing act typically results in wines with lower alcohol content, higher acidity, and more nuanced fruit flavors than their California counterparts.
Vineyard Details
The Maresh Vineyard, planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, is a testament to the potential of Oregon viticulture. At elevations between 500 and 800 feet, the vineyard benefits from cool Pacific breezes that funnel through the Van Duzer Corridor, maintaining the grapes’ acidity.
The red Jory soils, born from ancient volcanic activity, provide excellent drainage and impart a distinct mineral character to the wines. These soils, rich in iron oxide, are a defining feature of the Dundee Hills and contribute to the unique flavor profile of Arterberry Maresh wines.
Vine age is a crucial factor here. Many Pinot Noir vines date back to the original 1970 plantings, while the Chardonnay block was established in 1983. With their deep root systems, these old vines produce grapes of intense concentration and complexity.
Personal tasting notes and wine details
I received two beautiful wines from Best of Wines from the Maresh vineyard made by Arterberry Maresh. The 2018 Chardonnay had a lovely ripened sensation due to bottle aging, while the 2021 Pinot Noir was a very fresh, young example. Both wines needed some air to bloom and open up. I first tasted the wines using a Coravin with the aerator for more air, which helped, but a few days after the initial tasting, I opened the bottles, and they came to life even more. The Chardonnay had a slightly reductive character, but after some time and swirling in a carafe, it opened up beautifully. The Pinot Noir’s bouquet also blossomed wonderfully in a carafe.
Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard 2018
This Chardonnay is a testament to the potential of Oregon white wines. Made from vines planted in 1983, it undergoes fermentation and aging in neutral oak barrels, preserving the purity of the fruit. Let me tell you about this Chardonnay – it’s a real beauty!
First, the color is a gorgeous pale gold that sparkles in the glass when you swirl and sniff it—wow! It’s like a burst of fresh lemon and juicy white peach, with a hint of green apple thrown in for good measure. It’s also a little cocktail of vanilla, roasted almond, butter, nutmeg, yeast, scorched oak, and coconut. There’s also this subtle minerally note, almost like wet stones after a rain, and just a whisper of toastiness.
Take a sip, and you’ll find it crisp and refreshing, with a zingy medium (+) acidity that wakes up your taste buds; it’s fresh, ripe, round, almost like silk. All those fruity aromas you smelled? They’re also on your tongue, along with a distinct mineral quality that adds depth and interest. The finish is long and focused, leaving a lingering taste of lemon zest and flint that’ll have you reaching for another sip.
Overall, this wine is just outstanding. It’s got everything in perfect balance—fruit, acidity, complexity—and I can easily see it getting even better with a few more years in the bottle. If you’re looking for a Chardonnay to knock your socks off and impress yourself and your company, this is it!
Food Pairing: To complement its richness and acidity, I recommend pairing this Chardonnay with grilled fish, such as halibut topped with a lemon beurre blanc sauce or a creamy mushroom risotto.
Order this wine at Best of Wines: https://bestofwines.com/wine/united-states/oregon/arterberry-maresh/chardonnay-maresh-vineyard/chardonnay-maresh-vineyard-2018.htm
Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2021
This Pinot Noir comes from some of the oldest vines on the property, yielding a wine of incredible depth and character.
Let me tell you about this Pinot Noir—it’s absolutely delightful! When you pour it into your glass, you’ll notice a beautiful medium ruby color with hints of garnet that catches the light just right. As described before, it needs a lot of air.
Please take a moment to give it a good sniff, and wow! It’s like strolling through an orchard with ripe red cherries and wild strawberries. There’s a hint of leather, a whisper of coconut, a touch of nutmeg, a note of pomegranate, and the delicate scent of roses. But there’s more – you might catch a whiff of dried rose petals, like a faded bouquet, and something earthy that reminds you of a forest after rain. And just when you think you’ve got it all figured out, there’s a subtle hint of baking spice that makes you want to dive right in. It’s complex, restrained, a bit shy but approachable, and certainly not overpowered.
Now, the best part is tasting it! It’s dry but not in a harsh way. The acidity is just right at medium (+), making your mouth water a bit, and the high tannins are so smooth they’re almost silky. All those fruity aromas you smelled? They’re right there on your tongue, too, with the red fruits taking center stage. But wait, there’s more! You might notice some earthy flavors and a touch of cinnamon that adds a lovely warmth. The finish? It goes on and on, leaving you with lingering notes of cherry and a hint of minerality that makes you reach for another sip. This wine is still young, so leave it in your cellar for a few years or give it lots of air if you can’t wait.
Overall, this Pinot Noir is an absolute stunner. It’s got everything in perfect harmony – fruit, acidity, complexity – you name it. And the best part? It’s only going to get better with age. So if you can resist drinking it all now (trust me, it’s hard!), try saving a bottle or two for a few years. You won’t regret it!
Food Pairing: This versatile Pinot would be absolutely amazing with herb-roasted duck breast. The wine’s fruitiness would complement the rich meat perfectly. Or, if you’re in the mood for something vegetarian, try it with a wild mushroom tart – the earthy flavors would be a match made in heaven!
Order this wine at Best of Wines: https://bestofwines.com/wine/united-states/oregon/arterberry-maresh/pinot-noir-maresh-vineyard/pinot-noir-maresh-vineyard-2021.htm
Recent Developments
Arterberry Maresh has garnered increasing attention in recent years, and its wines consistently receive high praise from critics. The 2018 Chardonnay, in particular, has been lauded as one of the finest examples of the variety from Oregon.
In terms of winemaking, Jim Maresh Jr. has been experimenting with longer élevage for some of his Pinot Noirs, pushing the boundaries of what Oregon wines can achieve in terms of ageability and complexity.
Conclusion
As I sit here, savoring the last sips of these remarkable wines, I’m struck by their sheer quality and sense of place. Arterberry Maresh is crafting wines that showcase the best of Oregon’s Dundee Hills and stand shoulder to shoulder with some of the finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from around the world. This was a very lovely first introduction to wines from Oregon for me.
For wine enthusiasts seeking authentic, terroir-driven wines that can age gracefully, Arterberry Maresh should be at the top of their list. These are not just wines; they’re liquid history, capturing the essence of one of Oregon’s most storied vineyards.
I’m immensely grateful for the opportunity to taste these wines, generously provided by Best of Wines; thanks for this collaboration. They’ve opened my eyes to the incredible potential of Oregon’s Dundee Hills, and I can’t wait to see what future vintages will bring from this exceptional producer.
More information about Arterberry Maresh: https://arterberrymaresh.com/
More information about Best of Wines: https://bestofwines.com/wine/united-states/oregon/arterberry-maresh/
