Ever been disappointed by Brut Nature’s sharp edge? I’ve tasted plenty of zero-dosage champagnes that left my palate feeling attacked rather than delighted. So when I pulled Suisse Laval’s Premier Cru Brut Nature from my Vindeux subscription box, I’ll admit I was skeptical. Here’s the thing: this Champagne completely changed my perspective on what Brut Nature can be—and it did so with an unexpectedly joyful character.
A Family’s Traditional Approach in Cumières
The Suisse Laval family has crafted Champagne in Cumières since 1968, working the sun-kissed south-facing slopes of the Vallée de la Marne. Their vineyards benefit from chalky soils that impart minerality and structure to the wines. What sets this producer apart is their commitment to traditional methods that have largely disappeared from modern champagne production.
They work without malolactic fermentation, preserving the wine’s natural freshness, and age their champagnes in oak barrels—a practice requiring patience and skill. Most remarkably, they still use an original wooden press that’s been in operation for decades. These massive wooden presses are increasingly rare, replaced by modern pneumatic versions, making Suisse Laval a guardian of Champagne’s heritage.
The Unconventional Assemblage
What makes this wine different? Let’s start with the blend. This Premier Cru Brut Nature breaks from typical champagne conventions with its grape composition: 60% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and just 10% Chardonnay. At the same time, many prestige cuvées emphasize Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, Suisse Laval champions Meunier—often dismissed as the “workhorse grape” of Champagne.
I’ll be honest: this Meunier-dominant blend might not appeal to traditionalists seeking Chardonnay elegance, but it delivers something different—immediate fruit expression and appealing roundness that makes the wine instantly enjoyable.
The wine spent three years aging on its lees before disgorgement in February 2025. I tasted it about eight months after disgorgement, when it had found a beautiful balance—developed complexity without losing freshness. As a multi-vintage blend (70% from 2020, 30% from 2021), it offers consistency while capturing the essence of each harvest. With zero dosage—no sugar added after disgorgement—every element depends on the grapes’ inherent quality and the winemaking precision.
Fresh Without the Bite
Here’s what surprised me most: this Brut Nature has an uplifting, almost cheerful character that’s genuinely fresh but lacks that aggressive acidic edge. The nose opens with delicate white flowers, bright strawberries, and hints of orange marmalade. There’s vanilla, butter-baked apple, and toasted brioche—rich yet lively aromatics that make you smile.
On the palate, the wine offers layers of red fruit, balanced by notes of dried orange peel, almond, and subtle earthy mushroom flavors. The mousse is refined, with persistent bubbles that are never aggressive. It’s simultaneously fruity and serious, with enough structure to command attention. This versatility means you could serve it as an aperitif and continue enjoying it through an entire dinner—from oysters to roasted chicken to deChampagneile. This champagne won’t impress vintage snobs seeking prestige labels and fancy packaging; it offers something more valuable: genuine character and infectious drinkability at an accessible price point.
The Vindeux DiscoverChampagne service curated this champagne through Vindeux, a subscription service founded by Douwe and Ellen that delivers two bottles of champagne monthly to your door. As a proud Vindeux ambassador, I appreciate how they champion the true diversity of smaller grower Champagnes beyond the grand marques. Each shipment includes detailed tasting notes and producer stories, transforming a simple subscription into an ongoing education.
While you could opt for a single-bottle subscription, I recommend the two-bottle option—discovering twice the diversity makes the experience far more rewarding, and, honestly, Champagne tends to disappear quickly.
Worth Your Attention
Suisse Laval’s Brut Nature proves that Champagne with dosage doesn’t have to be austere or challenging. Through traditional methods and high-quality fruit, they’ve created a champagne that’s both refreshing and complex, yet accessible and serious. If you’ve hesitated about Brut Nature or want to explore authentic grower champagnes beyond familiar names, this bottle—and the Vindeux subscription that introduced me to it—absolutely deserves your attention.
More information: https://www.vindeux.nl/
