In this episode of Sparks by VinoVonk, winemaker Stamatis Mylonas talks about how Savatiano, grown in UNESCO-protected soils, can produce wines that age well and offer great value compared to Burgundy.
Discovering Attica’s Ancient Terroir: Why This Greek White Wine Ages 10+ Years
Tasting Stamatis Mylonas’s 2016 Gran Reserva Savatiano was a surprise. This white wine had aged for 8 years, first in oak for 2.5 years and then in bottle for more than 5 years. Even after all that time, it was still fresh, mineral, and vibrant. I did not expect that from a white wine, but it is possible, and it is happening in Attica, a Greek wine region that deserves more attention.
Listen to the Full Episode
The Winemaker Behind the Magic
Stamatis Mylonas is the third generation of his family making wine in Attica, just south of Athens. His grandfather and father sold their wine in bulk to tavernas across Greece, but Stamatis had a different vision. He wanted to prove what Savatiano and the Attica region could truly offer.
Stamatis studied chemistry and enology, earned his WSET diploma, and took over the family winery in 2000. The first Mylonas Winery bottling came out in 2006. Today, they export to more than 20 countries, and three of their wines have made it onto the respected Great Greek Wines list curated by Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis.
“After 30 years, the wines were still alive, fresh, beautiful, complex. They were still young. I said, ‘Wow, this is something very unique. I’m going to try to show the world what this grape can do.'” Stamatis Mylonas
A Terroir Unlike Any Other
What makes Attica’s wines stand out? For me, it all starts with the ground beneath your feet.
The region is UNESCO-protected for good reason. Research shows that of the 5,500 minerals found worldwide, 750 occur in Attica’s soil. This is the same earth that ancient Greeks mined for silver, the very silver that funded the construction of the Parthenon and the Acropolis.
Mineral-rich soil is just one part of the story. The Attica peninsula is nearly surrounded by the sea, so cooling breezes take the edge off the Mediterranean heat. This microclimate, along with the unique geology, makes the region ideal for growing grapes.
The Role of Old Vines
Most of the vines at Mylonas Winery are over 55 years old. After phylloxera struck in 1955, the vineyards were replanted on American rootstocks. Those same vines are still producing grapes today.
These old bush vines are dry-farmed and handpicked. Their roots reach deep into the soil, passing through layers and picking up minerals and flavors that end up in the wine.
“The magic happens in the vineyard,” Stamatis explains. “The roots go down to find water, and they meet different soils, different layers. They take the characteristics, the minerals, everything which is bottled afterwards.”
Savatiano: Greece’s Underrated Grape
If you haven’t heard of Savatiano before, you’re not alone. This indigenous Greek variety covers 80% of Attica’s vineyards and has been cultivated here since ancient times. But it’s long been undervalued due to its association with Retsina, the resin-flavored wine that dominated Greek production for decades.
Stamatis is determined to change how people see this grape.
“Savatiano is a variety with high yields and doesn’t have very high natural acidity,” he admits. “But when it comes from old vines, non-irrigated, with low yields, the acidity becomes different, higher, more crunchy. It gives the wine a very long life.”
The Three Wines I Tasted: After speaking with Stamatis, I tasted three wines from Mylonas Winery. Oenopolis, the leading Dutch importer of Greek wines, provided the bottles.
1. Mylonas Savatiano 2024 (€10-12)
This is the entry-level wine, made from ‘young’ vines, just 35 years old. It’s fresh and lively, with flavors of peach, citrus, grapefruit, and melon. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees for six months to add complexity. In 2021, it tastes bright and energetic, demonstrating that even the most approachable Mylonas wine can age well.
2. Mylonas Assyrtiko 2024 (€12-14)
This Assyrtiko is full and vibrant. On the nose, I get apples, honey, vanilla, and a hint of salt. It’s fresh, fruity, and easy to drink, an excellent choice any time of year. It’s dry, but still has a round, generous feel.
3. Mylonas Cuvee Vouno Savatiano 2020 (€17-19)
This is the standout wine. It spent two and a half years in new French oak barrels, then over five years in bottle before release. The result is a wine with intense minerality, ripe stone fruit and citrus flavors, and oak that integrates beautifully. The acidity remains high, the wine tastes fresh, and the complexity is remarkable. It’s a great example of how well white wine can age.
Value That Rivals Burgundy
One of the best things about Mylonas wines, and Greek wines in general, is the value you get for the price.
“Imagine going to Burgundy and buying a white wine at 10 to 20 euros,” Stamatis points out. “You cannot find that kind of quality with 8 years of aging in Burgundy at that price. Greek wines are great value for money.”
This isn’t just a sales pitch. The 2020 Cuvee Vouno I tasted has the complexity, aging potential, and sense of place you’d pay three to six times more for from a top Burgundy producer. At €17-19 in the Netherlands, it’s a real bargain for wine lovers.
The Future of Greek Wine
When I asked Stamatis about the future of Greek wine, his excitement was clear.
“The future is the indigenous grape varieties,” he declared. “Imagine we have more than 300 indigenous grapes. People may know Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Moschofilero, and Agiorgitiko, but Malagouzia, Savatiano, and Limniona are now gaining traction. There’s so much to discover.”He’ss right. Greek wine fits perfectly with what people are looking for today. Drinkers prioritize quality over quantity and seek authentic, unique wines that deliver real value. Greek wines, especially those from native grapes, deliver on all of these points.
The Great Greek Wines List
Being featured on the Great Greek Wines list has been transformative for Mylonas Winery. Curated by Yiannis Karakasis MW, this list serves as a guide for the international market and is a stamp of quality validation from Masters of Wine and industry experts.
“Whoever nowadays is interested in Greek wines will go to this list,” Stamatis explains. “It’s how you found us for this podcast. The exposure and credibility it provides are invaluable.”
A Philosophy of Respect
What stood out to me about Stamatis wasn’t just his skill as a winemaker, but his respect for the land and for the people who farm it.
He gets up at 6 AM to prune vines alongside his contract growers. He’s changed the way they work, encouraging green harvesting and lower yields by paying better prices. The result is growers who are proud to see their grapes in top-quality wines, and a winery built on strong, respectful relationships.
“The terroir, the grape variety, and the hard work in the vineyard should be the main character in the wine,” Stamatis insists. “Oak shouldn’t dominate.”
That’s why he uses large casks and old barrels, aged 8 to 10 years, for aging. He wants the wine to benefit from oak without being dominated by it. He also plans to buy foudres, large casks, to take this idea even further.
Why You Should Explore Attica Wines
If you like exploring new wines, Attica is worth your attention. Here’s why:
- Unique terroir: UNESCO-protected soils with 750 of the world’s 5,500 minerals
- Ancient vines: 55+ year-old bush vines producing concentrated, complex grapes
- Age-worthy wines: White wines that can age 10+ years while maintaining freshness
- Exceptional value: World-class quality at €15-25 per bottle
- Undiscovered potential: An underrated region ready for wider recognition
- Food-friendly: Mediterranean character with freshness, acidity, and minerality
How to Get These Wines
If you’re in the Netherlands, you can find Mylonas wines at Oenopolis. They have a great online shop, supply restaurants, and work closely with sommeliers across the country.
To learn more about the winery and see their full range, visit Mylonas Winery.
Perfect Food Pairings
Stamatis shared his favorite pairings for each wine:
Savatiano 2024: Grilled fish, octopus, calamari, shrimp, classic Mediterranean seafood
Assyrtiko 2024: Salads, light dishes, summer fare, an anytime wine for casual enjoyment
Cuvee Vouno Savatiano 2020: Lobster, rich seafood dishes, or simply enjoy it on its own. Its complexity means it can stand alone as a wine to savor.
Final Thoughts
Talking with Stamatis Mylonas showed me what’s possible when tradition and innovation come together, when old vineyards are respected, and when a winemaker is patient enough to let the wine develop naturally.
Attica deserves much more attention than it gets. With producers like Mylonas Winery showing what Savatiano can do, I believe we’re seeing the start of a Greek wine revolution.
If you’re tired of the usual Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and want wines with real character and a good story, it’s time to try Greek wine. Start with a bottle of Savatiano from Attica.
As I always say: drink less, but drink better. Discover something new.
Proost! 🍷
