When Axel Gillery, export manager of AR Lenoble, opened a magnum of their 1996 vintage at the recent Perswijn seminar, the room fell silent. The cork released with a whisper rather than a pop—always a good sign in aged Champagne. This wasn’t just another tasting; it was a masterclass in terroir-driven winemaking, organized by Perswijn in collaboration with Vinetiq, revealing why grower Champagne continues to captivate serious wine enthusiasts.
The AR Lenoble Philosophy: Innovation Meets Tradition
What distinguishes AR Lenoble from commercial houses? Their revolutionary “MAG” system and uncompromising commitment to freshness. Founded in 1920 and based in Damery, this family-owned estate deliberately limits production to preserve quality. Since the Malassagne family took stewardship in 1993, they’ve farmed organically across prime Champagne sites.
Their signature innovation involves aging reserve wines in magnums under sealed corkage rather than traditional tanks or barrels. This magnums-aging system—unique in Champagne—allows wines to develop complexity while maintaining remarkable freshness. With a minimum of 40% reserve wines in their blends, this approach creates consistency and depth that is impossible to achieve through conventional methods.
Equally distinctive is their malolactic fermentation strategy. Unlike most Champagne houses that put 100% of their wines through malolactic fermentation (MLF)—a process converting sharp malic acid to softer lactic acid—AR Lenoble blocks MLF in 75-85% of their production. Only wines aged in their limited wood barrels undergo this secondary fermentation, preserving the vibrant, crystalline acidity that defines their house style. This bold choice results in wines with exceptional aging potential and electric freshness.
Axel Gillery, export manager of AR Lenoble
The Core Range: Precision and Character
Gillery guided us through their current releases, beginning with the Dosage Zéro V.19—a zero-dosage blend (20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier) combining 52% from 2019 with 48% reserve wines aged in magnums. Its subtle, refined profile showcased piercing green apple and chalky minerality, though its bone-dry austerity may challenge conventional palates.
The Extra Brut V.20 offered greater accessibility through its expressive composition (30% Chardonnay, 35% each of Pinot Noir and Meunier), blending 60% from 2020 with 40% reserves. Toasted brioche and white flowers emerged alongside that distinctive AR Lenoble tension.
Most surprising was the Rosé V.19—an unconventional 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir blend that displayed a spring-like fruitiness with delicate red berry notes. The Blanc de Blancs V.19, sourced entirely from Grand Cru Côte des Blancs sites and aged 48 months in magnums, delivered the precise, complex character that defines great Chardonnay-based Champagne.
Vintage Expressions and Special Cuvées
The tasting was elevated by the 2013 Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru from Bisseuil in Damery—100% Pinot Noir, revealing sensual depth, baked pear, and honeyed richness from over a decade of maturation. The 2012 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru from Chouilly showcased subtle refinement that only extended aging can achieve.
Then came two special extras: Gentilhomme 2012, a bold yet refined 100% Chardonnay from Chouilly aged over a decade in their cellar, and Les Aventures—a physical, audacious multi-vintage blend that challenged Champagne conventions with its daring composition.
Finally, that glorious 1996 magnum—the surprise finish. With nearly thirty years of age, it maintains remarkable energy, proving that their non-MLF approach and magnums-aging system create Champagnes genuinely built for the long haul. Worth noting: these vintage cuvées command premium pricing, positioning them beyond everyday consumption.
Why AR Lenoble Matters
In today’s landscape of consolidation and escalating prices, AR Lenoble offers rare authenticity. They’re crafting honest, site-expressive Champagne without following trends—just unwavering commitment to their distinctive philosophy of freshness, precision, and terroir expression.
Sincere thanks to Perswijn for organizing this enlightening seminar, Vinetiq for making these wines available throughout the Netherlands, and especially to Axel Gillery for his generous knowledge sharing and that spectacular 1996.
Ready to discover AR Lenoble yourself? Visit Vinetiq to explore their complete range.
