Toet Amsterdam: Mediterranean Wine Magic

Toet Amsterdam’s wine list surprised me. I was sitting on Europaplein with my wife Linda, our own idea, our own tab, no idea we’d write about it, and sommelier Lars Kleverlaan poured us something from the Canary Islands. You don’t expect that. Lars came up through Michelin-starred Flore; his list carries that background but doesn’t intimidate. Greece, Croatia, Tenerife alongside the classics. Chef Raymond Plat’s Mediterranean cooking gets a wine programme that keeps up.

A List with Real Personality and Range

Lars Kleverlaan has crafted something special here. His experience at Flore clearly taught him that diversity matters: you’ll find accessible gems starting around €40 alongside very expensive bottles for the bold. What genuinely made me happy was seeing serious representation from Greece, Croatia, Cyprus, and even Germany: regions that too often get overlooked in favor of the usual Italian and French suspects. This isn’t a list designed to intimidate; it invites exploration regardless of your budget. The focus remains firmly on Southern European and Mediterranean producers, creating a cohesive thread that complements Toet’s culinary identity without being predictable. You can tell Lars actually thinks about how these wines work with the food, rather than just filling pages with impressive names.

Sparkling Sophistication Sets the Tone

We began with Michel Christò Trento DOC Brut 2021, and I immediately understood Lars’s approach. Rather than defaulting to Prosecco or the more obvious Franciacorta, this elegant sparkler from Italy’s Trento region offered refinement without pretension. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay using the traditional method (the same technique as Champagne), it delivered delicate bubbles, crisp green apple notes, and a whisper of almond on the finish. Paired with some Toet’s snacks, it was exactly what an aperitif should be: lively enough to awaken your palate, sophisticated enough to signal that you’re in good hands.

When Atlantic Winds Meet Volcanic Terroir

Here’s where things got interesting. Lars poured us Trenzado 2021 from Valle de la Orotava in Tenerife, and honestly, when was the last time you saw Canary Islands wine on an Amsterdam list? Minerally, saline, almost smoky: this volcanic expression transported us straight to black sand beaches and Atlantic winds. It was bold programming that paid off beautifully.

We compared it to the Attis Lías Finas Albariño 2024 from Rías Baixas in Galicia. This Spanish coastal classic delivered everything Albariño does best: razor-sharp acidity, citrus blossom aromatics, and that characteristic sea-spray minerality. The “lías finas” designation means it aged on fine lees, adding subtle texture. Both whites proved ideal companions for our seabass carpaccio with bottarga; the ocean-influenced wines perfectly echoed the maritime ingredients. The Albariño was very fruity, warm, and elegant. The Trenzado, by contrast, offered more tension and edge: comfort versus the pull to keep going.

Old Vine Excellence That Stopped Us Mid-Conversation

The evening’s revelation arrived with Ossian Viñas Viejas 2022, a Verdejo from ancient vines in Segovia. If you know Verdejo as Rueda’s easy-drinking supermarket white, prepare to have your mind changed. This wine, crafted from old vineyards (viñas viejas), offered honeyed richness, complex nutty undertones, and impressive structure: closer to fine white Burgundy than typical Spanish fare. It elevated our main course of red muller with lardo di Colonnata so beautifully that Linda and I actually paused mid-conversation to appreciate it. This selection shows Lars’s range: he curates everything from affordable discoveries to investment-worthy bottles.

Generous Service, Though Not Without Flaws

Throughout the evening, Lars himself offered us extra tastes: that generous “just try this” approach that turns good service into memorable hospitality. The staff’s wine knowledge was evident without being showy.

However, I need to be honest about three issues. The wine list itself, despite its excellent content, genuinely frustrated me with its ornate cursive font, which is too small and complex to read in ambient lighting. More significantly, the by-the-glass selection could be substantially larger: when you have such diverse and interesting bottles on the list, more glass pours would encourage experimentation without the commitment of full bottles. Finally, while half-bottle options exist, expanding these would make the list even more accessible.

Why You Should Visit Anyway

These criticisms aside, Toet Amsterdam’s wine program succeeds brilliantly. Lars Kleverlaan has created a list with genuine personality that spans from affordable gems to serious collector bottles,one that educates without lecturing and surprises without alienating. Combined with the warm atmosphere and genuinely professional service, Toet becomes a must-visit destination for wine lovers in Amsterdam-Zuid.

When you go, and you should, ask Lars what he’s excited about right now. His enthusiasm is infectious, and whether your budget is modest or generous, you’ll find something exceptional. Maybe bring your reading glasses and an extra light.