Everyone has that moment when you think, wow, this was a real game-changer. For me, it was October 27, 2023, the day I met a legend in the wine world. But, like with most big moments, you only realize the impact later. So, what’s the story? I got an invite from Jan Jaap Altenburg at the wine bar Vindict in Amsterdam to join a Masterclass called The New Sounds of Rioja. Since I’m a huge fan of Rioja wines, I was excited to learn more about these new trends. We got an explanation, tasting, workshop, or rather, a full-on masterclass from winemaker Carmen Perez Garrigues of winery Villota, located in Rioja Alavesa. Thanks again for the invite, Jan Jaap!
What is this new sound of Rioja?
This is a simple yet tricky question. The easy answer for me is that the new sound of Rioja wines is all about more freshness, approachable complexity, less overpowering wood, and a whole lot of elegance.
The tougher answer is that the new sound of Rioja is about breaking away from traditional Rioja wine regulations. It’s not just about following the rules; it’s about making wine in a way that’s more enjoyable. You have to feel the terroir, the old vines, the region’s history, and the elegance Rioja’s different grape varieties offer. It’s also about creating new regulations that fit these new kinds of wines, like the Viñedo Singular. These are single-vineyard wines with lots of rules to preserve the history of the old vines they’re made from. But there are more rules, and we’ll chat about those later. The new sound is also about innovation and experimentation. That is why Carmen experiments every year with a new blend in some wines. But it is all about the terroir. As Carmen says, it’s about soil expression; show it in the different wines.
What is so unique in the vineyards of Villota?
In 2013, the Pérez Villota family started their own artisanal winery, bringing along their beautiful old vineyards. They keep it small, only working with grapes they grow on their single estate. Their vineyards are perfectly located in Rioja Alavesa, right by the Ebro River. Insiders even call this spot the ‘Côte d’Or’ of Rioja, known for grand cru-worthy wines. All these cool factors combine to make some truly stunning wines that show off the terroir. The vineyards are planted with traditional Rioja grape varieties, mainly Tempranillo, along with red grapes like Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuela, and white varieties like Viura, White Garnacha, and Tempranillo. Over half of the vines are over 35 years old, and Carmen’s team takes care of them passionately. They use a minimal intervention approach, supporting nature without too much interference. No herbicides are used.
This way, they get extraordinary grapes, and Viña del Lentisco turns them into a fantastic lineup of classic, impressive, and refined Rioja wines. This winery will only improve, and I can’t wait to see what the family comes up with next!
Who is behind this wine?
Viña del Lentisco is the winery’s name, and Villota is the name of the wines. In the village of Laserna in Rioja Alavesa, right by a bend of the Ebro River, the Pérez Villota family has been making history for four generations. It all started with Ricardo Pérez Pérez, a Rioja native who bought the estate after returning from Chile in 1930. His son, Ricardo Pérez Calvet, an agricultural engineer, took over and began restoring the old vineyards, making wine for personal use. In 1973, Ricardo Pérez Calvet and his son, Ricardo Pérez Villota, teamed up with Cvne, who was already supplying many grapes. The Pérez Villota family managed the vineyards while Cvne, a big player in the industry, handled sales and distribution. This successful partnership gave birth to the famous Viñedos del Contino. After working together for four decades, Cvne bought the entire Contino estate.
Ricardo Pérez Villota and his daughter Carmen, both agricultural engineers, naturally kept their vineyards, a valuable inheritance. In 2013, they started Viña del Lentisco and began producing wines under the Villota brand. With four generations of experience and a deep understanding of their exceptional terroir in the best part of Rioja, they excel in their craft.
Personal tasting notes of the Masterclass
We had five flights of wines to compare and get a feel for the new sounds of Rioja. Carmen introduced all the wines, sharing the history of the vineyards, vines, and production methods. Jan Jaap was so pumped about these wines that he just couldn’t stand still. After tasting them, I totally get why he was so excited!
Flight 1:
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Selvanevada Blanco 2021
Grapes: 94% Viura – 6% White Garnacha
Carmen calls this her “entry-level” wine, but I was blown away. It’s creamy, round, and elegant, with a crisp, sublime acidity that’s super fruity. It’s a serious yet approachable wine, nicely balanced with loads of apple, pear, lemon zest, lime, peach, and a hint of wet stone. It’s full-bodied with a fresh, crisp, edgy vibe. I just love it, and this was only the start.
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Selvanevada Blanco 2022
Grapes: 94% Viura – 6% White Garnacha
Same wine, same blend, different year, and wow, this one is fresher, more vibrant, and fruity. The acidity is medium and smooth in your mouth. It’s nicely balanced with red and green apple, pear, lemon zest, lime, peach, and a hint of wet stone. Full-bodied with an elegant finish. You can really tell the difference between the years. Having it in the bottle helps, but wow, this is a wine you always want in your cellar. Your choice will blow everyone away.
Flight 2:
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Selección Blanco 2019
Grape: Viura
Made from the first selection of grapes, this wine is a relaxed, chill blend of aromas and flavors with some complexity. It’s got elegant, warm, fruity vanilla vibes, rich red apple notes, medium crisp acidity, and a long finish. It’s a step up from the last one, but you can still sense its unique identity and terroir.
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Selección Blanco 2018
Grape: Viura
Another year, another round of bottle aging, and as always, the conditions were unique. This wine is packed with a warm, ripe apple, a hint of white pepper, eucalyptus, vanilla, wet stone, flinty notes, creamy texture, a touch of toast, and acacia. It’s got medium acidity and a long finish, and it’s super gentle and elegant. The perfect companion.
Flight 3:
Rioja Villota Rosado 2022
This is a seriously awesome medium salmon reddish rosé wine. It’s complex, earthy, fruity, and flinty and brings joy. It is packed with raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, black currant, roses, violets, rosemary, sour red berries, and red and black cherries. It has medium (+) acidity and is low in tannins, but there is the structure from it and a rich, ripe strawberry flavor wrapped in a herbal, spicy finish.
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Selvanevada Tinto 2021
Grapes: Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, and Mazuelo
This ruby red wine is packed with red cherries and fresh strawberries. It’s got a bit of clay and earthiness, sitting somewhere between a serious, hefty red Rioja and a fresh, approachable, friendly wine. With medium (+) acidity and medium (+) tannins, it has a long finish that makes you want another sip to explore and taste even more.
Flight 4:
Here, the wines are made entirely from just one type of grape, a monocépage.
Rioja Villota Garnacha 2021
Rich red fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries, with smooth, medium (+) acidity and very accessible medium tannins.
Rioja Villota Graciano 2021
A nose full of cocoa and rich red fruit hits you right off the bat. The acidity is medium-high, and the tannins are medium-high, too. It feels like the Garnacha’s tougher sibling.
Rioja Villota Mazuelo 2021
This is the elegant mother of the previous wines, with medium (+) acidity and medium (+) tannins, packing lots of elegance, power, and energy. There are tons of red fruit, but a bit reserved. Let it warm up in your glass, and the air works its magic—the acidity and tannins smooth out, making it even more elegant. This one’s my favorite out of the trio. I can’t wait to try these wines in a few years after they’ve aged a bit more in the bottle.
Flight 5:
Alright, now we’re heading to the grand finale, and we didn’t see this coming. From perfect balance to a single vineyard wine with special rules, wow! Who knew it could get even better!
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Tinto 2020
Grapes: Tempranillo, Graciano, and Garnacha
This is like heaven for your nose—smooth, fruity, with hints of red cherries and vanilla. The balance is just perfect! Wow! It’s a great mix of fresh and ripe red fruit, vanilla, wood, and nutmeg. The acidity and tannins are medium but super smooth and easy to love. It’s like you can smell and taste the previous wines; just focus, and you’ll notice the individual grapes! It chills out in 500-liter concrete tanks to unwind, and you can totally feel that in the wine.
Viña del Lentisco Rioja Villota Viñedo Singular Viña Gena 2018
Grapes: 100% Tempranillo
If you think it couldn’t get better, well, this is the one you’ve been waiting for, the real pièce de résistance. This single vineyard wine comes from plots over 35 years old, all from a single variety. Yes, there’s even a regulation for this called Viñedo Singular, and you can spot it on the special back label sticker. There are more rules to it, but that’s a story for another time. This is the big one! It’s the result of innovation, experimenting, and embracing your heritage, the old vineyards. This Viña Gena, named after Carmen’s grandmother, is fresh, vibrant, lively, elegant, spicy, fruity, and flinty. It has an awesome balance in both aroma and taste. You’ll find a mix of fresh and ripe red fruits: strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, plum, black currant, blueberries, along with notes of vanilla, nutmeg, wood, acacia, rosemary, bay leaf, cacao, and chocolate. It has medium (+) acidity and medium (+) tannins that are already perfectly balanced. But as ASI sommelier Jan Jaap told us, give it a few years in the bottle, and it will only get better. I even asked him if that’s really possible, and he confirmed it, so I might keep a bottle to test it out. If you want something truly special, go for the Viña Gena, put it in a decanter, let it breathe, and just enjoy.
For me, this is the real new sound of Rioja!
Conclusion
The masterclass on the new sounds of Rioja was an eye-opening experience that showcased the evolution and innovation within the region’s wine industry. Villota winery stands out with its commitment to quality, minimal intervention, and respect for tradition, resulting in fresh and elegant wines. Each wine we tasted highlighted the unique terroir and dedication of the Pérez Villota family. If you are passionate about wine and eager to explore the new trends in Rioja, Villota Winery should be at the top of your list. Carmen is such an inspiring person, and she is also helping other winemakers to develop. I am excited to see what the future holds for this remarkable winery and look forward to experiencing more of their exceptional creations.
Thanks again, Jan Jaap, for the invitation, and Carmen, for sharing your fabulous stories. Go check out the wine bar Vindict in Amsterdam, have a glass of Villota, or get yourself a bottle of Villota in your favorite wine shop if you can’t go to the wine bar in Amsterdam.
More information about Villota: https://www.vinovillota.com
More information about Vindict Winebar in Amsterdam: https://wijnbarvindict.nl/
