Dry Tokaj is the hit of 2024, in my opinion! Many people prefer dry wines over sweet ones, which is why regions known for sweet wines are now producing dry varieties. I noticed this trend at Vinobio 2024 and couldn’t wait to try more dry Tokaj wines. I’m thrilled that MAG Wines wanted to collaborate with me on this trend. Thanks to Magwijnen, I got to sample two different types of dry Tokaji wines: a fresh, young one made with Furmint and an aged one made with Hárslevelű.
Summer trend of 2024 dry Tokaji wines, but what is the difference with sweet Tokaji?
The Tokaj region, renowned for its vineyards and sweet Tokaji wine, is transitioning towards producing dry Tokaji. This shift demonstrates Hungarian wine’s versatility and highlights modern innovations in Tokaj’s winemaking.
I’ll delve into the basics of Tokaji wines, distinguishing between dry and sweet variants. I’ll examine the characteristics of dry Tokaji, typically made from Tokaji Furmint and Tokaji Szamorodni grapes, and compare them to the sweet Tokaji Aszú. The aim is to highlight the unique qualities of each style and explain why the dry version is poised to become a popular choice this season. Let’s delve into the factors that make these wines appealing and deepen our understanding of Tokaj’s winemaking history.
The story behind the bottles I tasted
Dry Tokaji wines are unique; the best way to understand them is through tasting. Magwijnen gave me two bottles of this style: a Hollóvár, Furmint 2020, Tokaj and Lenkey, Holdvölgy 2015, Tokaj. I will share my observations and personal tasting notes of these wines. I strongly recommend trying these styles of wines.
Hollóvár, Furmint 2020, Tokaj
Hollóvár’s dry Tokaji wine is crafted from Furmint grapes, grown in soil that combines stone, rhyolite, and red clay. The winery employs organic farming techniques, handpicking the grapes and allowing fermentation to occur naturally via a gravity-fed process. The wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for approximately eight months and contains 40 mg/l of sulfites. It is neither purified nor filtered. Hollóvár, established by renowned winemaker Lajos Takács in 1997, is recognized for its exceptional wine. In 2014, Lajos returned to his native Tokaj Hegyalja from Somló.
The wine has a bright yellow color and a fresh aroma that includes apple, pear, lime zest, and a hint of lemon, along with sweet spices like cinnamon and cardamom. The palate is surprisingly fresh and complex, filled with fruity flavors like apple, pear, lime, and lemon. It has medium acidity, a medium (+) body, and a very long finish with a hint of tobacco that was unexpected yet enjoyable in a wine like this.
This wine is perfect for the summer, with a small salad or spicy Asian food.
Order this wine: https://magwijnen.nl/product/hollovar-furmint-2020-tokaj/
Lenkey, Holdvölgy 2015, Tokaj
Lenkey’s dry Tokaji is made from Hárslevelű grapes, grown in soil composed of tuff stone, rhyolite, red clay, and basalt. The wine is a product of organic farming. The grapes, picked by hand and crushed whole, undergo natural fermentation. It is aged in Hungarian oak barrels for about 3.5 years and left in a bottle for another 2.5 years.
Géza, a winemaker from the Tokaj-Hegyalja region, is dedicated to preserving the unique character of the grapes. He is bold and expressive in his wine-making and experiments with aging techniques. He does this with sweet Tokaji Aszú and dry Furmint and Hárslevelű wines. Géza maintains that the terroir shapes the complexity of Tokaji wines and that they need time to develop fully.
The wine is surprisingly different from the younger one made with Furmint. It is much more concentrated and complex, with aromas of hazelnuts, orange peel, lemon, and a bit of caramel and acacia. The palate is full of fruit and dried fruits, rich while still being fresh, with lots of rich floral notes like acacia and elderberry, sweet chestnut, caramel, and a subtle undertone of cocoa beans. It’s a different category worth tasting.
I like both styles, but it depends on your mood. Sometimes, you want something fresh, and sometimes, you want something more complex and rich.
Order this wine: https://magwijnen.nl/product/lenkey-holdvolgy-2015-tokaj/
Understanding Dry Tokaji
Dry Tokaji wines, predominantly made from the same grape varieties as sweet Tokaji, have recently become more prominent. They provide a fresh, mineral-driven taste that reflects the unique characteristics of the Tokaj region and is increasingly being recognized.
Characteristics of dry wines
The main grape in Dry Tokaji wines is Furmint, followed by Hárslevelű and Sárga Muskotály. There’s growing interest in the Kabar variety. These wines are known for their high acidity and mineral qualities, which come from Tokaj’s volcanic soils. Winemaking techniques have changed, focusing on fresher and crisper wines instead of the heavily oaked styles of the past. This change aims to showcase the fruit’s natural taste and the region’s unique mineral traits.
Typical flavor profiles
Dry Tokaji has a mineral flavor, similar to dry Rieslings from places like Alsace or Rheingau. These wines are sharp and acidic, with apple and pear tones. Dry Tokaji can also have white-flower and linden smells, especially when Hárslevelű is in the mix. This addition lessens the acidity and gives the wines a floral, softer touch. Over time, the use of oak has become more subtle to maintain the wine’s freshness and sharpness.
Understanding Sweet Tokaji
Tokaji wines, known for their sweetness and complexity, reflect the unique viticulture of the Tokaj region. These wines, such as the famous Tokaji Aszú and Eszencia, are made from grapes affected by noble rot. This mold gives the wine unique flavors and a rich depth.
Characteristics of Sweet Wines
Sweet Tokaji wine is made primarily from botrytis-affected grapes or Aszú berries. These shrunken grapes, full of sugar and flavor, are handpicked and soaked with base wine to draw out their intense sweetness and distinct flavor. The resulting wine is lovely but balanced by high acidity. It can taste like apricot, orange, or honey, with complex saffron, beeswax, and ginger hints. As the wine ages, it can develop deeper flavors of dried fruits and spices.
Role of Noble Rot (Botrytis)
Noble rot, or botrytis cinerea, is essential for making sweet Tokaji wines. This fungus grows well in specific weather conditions, such as foggy mornings and dry, sunny days. It develops on ripe grapes, concentrating their sugars and acids and enhancing their aromas. This creates a complex flavor, including fruity, floral, and toasty notes. The combination of the botrytis and the grape varieties in Tokaj, mainly Furmint, produces a lovely and slightly acidic wine, providing a multi-layered and long-lasting taste.
A Side-by-Side Comparison
Production Method Variations
Dry Tokaji wines, first famous in the early 1990s thanks to pioneers like Disznókő and Hétszőlő, have seen significant changes in their production. Initially, grapes were harvested early, leading to wines with a sharp, green acidity. Winemakers have since adjusted to mid-harvesting, improved vineyard selection, and a fresher wine style with some oxygen contact during aging for better stability and longevity. Unlike sweet Tokaji, dry wines are made without botrytis-affected grapes, which makes them more adaptable and quicker to market.
Producing sweet Tokaji, especially aszú wines, requires careful work. Noble rot-affected grapes are handpicked and then macerated with base wine or must for a rich taste. This process is labor-heavy and depends on specific weather conditions, needing a balance of humid and dry periods for botrytis development.
Contrast in Flavor Profiles
Dry Tokaji wines are known for their sharp, mineral qualities with high acidity, reflecting Tokaj’s volcanic soils. Depending on the blend, they often have apple and pear flavors with floral nuances. Modern dry Tokaji usually avoids strong oak influences to keep the grape fresh.
On the other hand, sweet Tokaji boasts a mix of flavors from apricot and orange to honey due to noble rot. Aszú wines are especially famous for their layered, silky texture with a long, enduring finish, presenting a variety of botrytis-induced flavors that develop over time.
Foundations of Tokaji Wines
Tokaj, the origin of the world’s oldest and highly respected sweet wines like Tokaji Aszú, has a deep history spanning centuries. Aside from its renowned sweet wines, Tokaj also makes high-quality dry white wines, demonstrating the region’s adaptability.
Key Grape Varieties in Tokaji
The Tokaji region grows six white grape varieties, each adding something unique to its wine. Furmint, the most common grape, accounts for about 60% of plantings and can make both dry and sweet wines due to its high acidity. Hárslevelű, accounting for about 30%, produces aromatic wines with strong acidity. Sárga Muskotály, or Yellow Muscat, is known for its floral aromas. Other varieties, like Kövérszőlő, Zéta, and Kabar, are less common but add depth and uniqueness to Tokaji wines.
Geographical and Climatic Factors
Tokaj’s unique earth character comes from over 20 million years of volcanic history. The geological activity led to various soil types like loess, clay, and different volcanic soils, each adding to the unique taste of Tokaji wines. The area’s weather is mainly continental, marked by dry, hot summers and cold winters, with a late summer season that provides the perfect conditions for the growth of Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. This mold is vital for making sweet Tokaji wines, as it intensifies the sugars and flavors in the grapes.
Historical Significance
Tokaj, the first demarcated wine region established by a 1737 Royal Charter, has a long history tracing back to the Celts and the Magyars. Its growth was shaped by different cultures, including French settlers in the 11th century and Italian winegrowers in the 13th century who brought the Furmint grape. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tokaj is appreciated for its winemaking legacy and its cultural and scenic value.
Knowing these facts helps us appreciate the various wines from Tokaj. Each bottle contains a piece of the region’s history and volcanic earth.
Market Trends and Consumer Choices
Dry Tokaji wine is gaining popularity, especially as natural and minimally processed wines become trendy. These wines suit a modern taste that prefers less sweet and more multifaceted wine flavors, hence their rising demand in international markets, including the U.S. The bottle design has changed, too, with longer necks and wider bottoms for distinctiveness while still resembling the traditional Tokaji bottle style.
Despite its historical prestige, sweet tokaji has production difficulties due to its reliance on specific weather conditions for botrytis. However, its exclusive flavor profile sustains its significant market position, especially for those valuing traditional and labor-intensive production methods. Aszú remains a premium choice, often chosen for its richness and ability to pair well with various dishes.
Conclusion
The rise of dry Tokaji wines alongside traditional sweet varieties showcases the Tokaj region’s versatility. Wine enthusiasts can now explore a spectrum of flavors, from the fresh, mineral notes of dry Tokaji to the rich complexity of sweet Tokaji. As consumer preferences evolve, Tokaji wines captivate with both their historical allure and modern trends. Whether you enjoy the crisp acidity of a dry Furmint or the sweetness of an Aszú, there’s something memorable for every palate.
The preference for both dry and sweet Tokaji wines reflects a trend toward variety and innovation. This appreciation respects Tokaj’s history while highlighting its unique terroir. By blending modern tastes with traditional viticulture, Tokaji wines remain at the forefront of wine excellence, offering diverse flavors for all fans.
Thanks again to Magwijnen for sending me these great bottles and for the opportunity to share them with you all.
More information about Magwijnen: https://magwijnen.nl/
